I am just leaving the house, but I will check my Factory Service Manual (FSM) this evening to check out the schematics for the heater.

There is a drain for the AC condensation at the evaporator coil, if that got plugged maybe water spilled into the motor.

Have you checked the resistor pack for the blower control?

This truck has no a/c unit. Just a heater. I probed around the fuse box. Some reason power is not going to the one side, I suppose it is power terminal of the fuses. Every thing else ground out. I make a jumper wire from large red with white stripe wire to jump over to the bar with no power. I test inside for 12v and there was power. Motor would not engage though. I dont know what I am doing. I tried to grab 12v from some spot and jump it over to the fuse bar and nothing really worked. I looked and examine the resistor pack? it is located above the power connctions on the blower motor?? I removed it is a sealed unit. All I did was test for OHM and IDK what to do. Things lead to the ignition source in manual? and the resistor pack or faulty switch.


It is not getting power from inside fuse box or relay/ I test the relays and the few I took out and power 12v to clicked. So I assume they are good?

I have done a few tests but not sure what direction to go next.

Thanks Joe

If you don't have power at the fuse box, then the problem must be upstream of that.

Having said that, grounding problems are far more common in my experience...

I ended up jumping a hot from a source inside the fuse box, and powering the terminal on the power side. No power for some reason. Relay is not working or transfering power, Here I ended up grabbing power off a red/white stripe wire and now the blower has 12v all the time. I took it before the ignition. Not sure where to find it after. Dont want to play around too much.

I ended up getting the driver side axle out, and the new one in. What a PITA. It was some what a struggle it was my first time and I dont know to many people who know 4x4 or the front ends of them well. I have been handling all my own work now for some time. Now I am on the PASS side, and the thing is harder to remove, Do I have to drop the driveshaft to the front diff and let it hang? I am just struggling and it will be getting cold. I have the complete axle to go in, got them cheap enough new. I know it would be way easier to just put a new boot and band on.

Going to be hitting it hard tomorrow. I worked out on the truck in the rain today, Just broke down the passanger side ball joints down and partially dissasembled the front axle assembly. I stopped becasue I ran out of light and could not see the next step. It looks like I have to take more apart and possibly lower the front pumpkin or diff and lower it down to get the assembly out? I am hoping its a quick thing. I still have a few more things to do, Weld on a muffler, find a tail pipe for it, And Figure out how hard it is to drop the tank, I have some hidden rust behind the tank. I can repair it real fast with a nice plate and some welding.

Try loosening the bracket bolts on the drivers side so the center housing can move around some. Put a floor jack under the pumpkin for support. I assume you are trying to pull it out through the control arms?