Try checking the TPS per the FSM procedure.

Also, there's a vacuum switch with plastic fittings on the thermostat housing that has 2 vacuum lines attached - controls the EGR. The nipples are prone to cracking and allowing vacuum leaks.

FPR is another suspect.

Frank

TPS was checked, and found to be good, EGR valve is not even hooked up, nor was it hooked up when truck was running fine. What is the FPR, and where might it be located??

Is that the Fuel Pressure Regulator FE?
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Nope. Works at all engine temps. There is an additional FIDLE valve that works like a thermostat to give an initial 1500rpm idle when cold starting, but it closes very quick, under a minute. The ISC is to stabilize idle speed under all idle loads (PS, AC, etc). It is possible that yours is bad.

Did you read my previous post and did you do any of the things I suggested? Results? Don't go changing parts until you know what's broken...

The FPR is on the return flow end of the fuel rail. To test, pinch off fuel return line when idleing and see if idle improves.

Fasteddy, the gas that is in it is the non-ethanol gas, I smelled it and the exhaust and both smell like they should, I do need to recheck the plug wires, it seems like either 1, 3 or 5 does cross to the opposite side of engine, cant recall exactly, my truck is at a friends house in his shop, I checked the ICS, per the Haynes manual and according to it, it is reading incorrectly. I found one on ebay for 50 bucks, gonna order it and recheck the plug wires and hopefully that will get this thing running, if not I will either repost or just shoot this damn thing and put it out of my misery......lol
Thanks

...is often wrong on procedural things like you're working on. Download and absorb the information that Monty McV puts on Mitsubishi Links...this is where you get the Mitsubishi Service Manual. Haynes books are good tinder in my opinion.

ditto the Haynes manual is junk. Download the fsm from mitsubishilinks.com.

Only buy isc's with a black plastic body, not the brown superceded ones. Best price I've seen is in the $135 range, but it's been a while.

I credit the Haynes manual for my being able to get my '86 so cheaply. The PO had replaced the head gasket but couldn't get the truck to run. I didn't notice why until I got it home on a trailer. The next day, a beer and a cigarette in hands, my observational powers paid off when I realized that the firing order isn't 1-2-3-4. He was so close to getting it right, because when I put them back to correct, it fired right up, the a/c kicked in and everything worked just fine, except for the rear main seal, which leaked like crazy. Maybe that wasn't his fault, I don't know.

John B.

My favorite Haynes quote:

"Repair of this (whatever you need to fix) is beyond the skills of the home mechanic, and should be referred to the dealer service department...", especially in light of the intro phrase, "Every vehicle goes thruough a complete tear down and re-assembly..."

OK, I have the idle and timing all figured out, but the left side(looking at the motor from the front) sounds like it is about to jump out of the truck, a constant tapping, like the valves are hitting the valve cover, it is only on the left side, which is also the same side that the camshaft was replaced on when the roller rocker thing froze up and grooved the camshaft causing it to have to be replaced. Does anyone know or have any suggestions as to what this might be, I changed oil hoping it might help, just stayed the same. Any Suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks