Time for an update...
I was able to fix the tranny fluid leak. The flared fitting that the hose attaches to had a small split in it. But I was able to use a small amount of black gasket maker in the threads and reinstalled it. Worked like a champ! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> The front end alignment was done soon after my last post. The front end feels much tighter than before. And the engine was definitely running much better with the new timing belt. But...
I had some leaks in the power steering line. The one hose I didn't replace wasn't sealing. It was the hose from the return line off the pump that connects to the hard line running to the reservoir. I replaced the hose and all was well, until I noticed that I still had fluid leaking from somewhere. Turns out the power steering fluid, which was a light tan color, was masking an oil leak. The new oil was the same color. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> And the oil leak was coming from the oil pump... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
I finally had enough time to start pulling everything apart yesterday. And I mean everything! Radiator, AC pump and bracket, PS pump and bracket, thermostat housing, timing assembly, oil pan and lowering the front diff. I also had to lower the cross link to get the oil pan out. I found the easy way to do that was to unbolt the pitman arm so it could hang lower on one side. It took me two days to get it all apart to get the oil pump. Turns out that I rolled the front seal when the pump was installed. It felt fine. But I couldn't see the seal completely. And it was the part that I didn't look at that rolled. I have the new seal and the pump installed. The new seal looks good - no rolls this time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> I'll try to post some pics soon. But it looks like I'm on track to have it done this weekend.
One note: The first time I lowered the diff, I had the front end up on jack stands, supporting the frame so I could rebuild the suspension. This time, I put the jack stands under the lower control arms, because the suspension was not in the scope of the project. Well, I just realized two reasons why you don't want to lower the diff when using the lower control arms as the support points: - It's much harder to lower the diff because the left side hanger is a pain to maneuver. - The CV shafts will hit the lower control arm. I split the inner boots on both sides, which I noticed when I observed grease oozing out... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
But I can gimp along with that problem for a little while. It can wait... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
More to come... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
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