I figured if the diaphragm in the actuator were torn, it would leak (easier to spot on the 80+ psi air lockers, though). Didn't seem to be leaking.

No idea if it's moving or not. I don't hear anything, but I did feel a tangible difference when it was pressurized...unfortunately, it felt like it simply stayed open, but was more directly engaged.

Check my last post, though...now all of a sudden, it seems locked...with no air pressure. I'm baffled. I need a <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />.

EDIT: Seems like I may have the same issue as this guy...http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=11558501155821&Number=1264868&page=0&fpart=6&vc=1 ...but it's hard to tell for sure. At this point I'm planning to pull the diff chunk tomorrow.

Can anyone confirm...it is, in fact, possible to leave either the brakes and/or e-brake connected, and pull the axles out far enough to release the diff? At least one person made mention that this was possible, but I'd love confirmation if possible. It would save me 30 mins at least. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

So did you figure out what a 3rd member is? In a 3rd member differential design, the entire differential assembly is attached to a removable section of the differential housing. You can remove said 3rd member, work on it on a bench including seething the pinion backlash then once set up install the entire assembly in the main diff housing.

From what ive been told its a very common setup in arge truck axles (semi's), etc.

It is fairly common for these units to be stubborn, since few ever use them. I think 90 weight sludge just gums up the works. I have never had one of mine not work, because I used them so much. My experience has been just using it off road a bit, engaging and dis-engaging will clear it up. Remember, once you put a strain on the locker on something like asphalt you may need to wait, or back up and unwind that torque to disengage, similar to the viscous coupling coming out of 4x4. But the squealing tires is the diff locked.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'm gonna take it apart today and see if it just needs to be cleaned. Someone said that's what happened on their G500.

-any clarification on leaving brakestuffs attached and still being able to gett the axles 3" out?

-any clarification on where the stupid pump is located for future reference?

-any clarification on the pinout of the 4x4 logic box so I can wire the switch straight to the pump?

Thanks again all!

IIRC you'll have to pull the rear brake calipers, brackets, and rotors off in order to pull the axle shafts, but if you hang the calipers from a bungee cord or wire clothes hanger you won't have to disconnect the brake lines.

The air pump is in the cubby that you show in your first picture - there is a panel to the left inside the cubby held in place with 3 10mm bolts. The pump is attached to the back side of the panel. If you're getting the proper pressure at the rear axle then there's really no need to pull the pump out, other than for your own curiosity. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks...what the heck is that white connector though?!

So, the axles are out and the diff case is drained and unbolted all the way around, but I cannot seem to break that seal loose from the axle!

Any tricks you guys know of? I'm hitting where I can with a BFH, but it's not budging. They should have cast in a prying lip. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Just trying to figure out the side-to-side alignment now, on the side bearing nuts. then it's going back in the truck...without a rear detection switch. I actually had the diff out of the carrier, and reinstalled forgetting to put the detection switch back in. Whoops. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

I'll be able to tell if it's locked or not. The rear lock light will be wired directly to the pump I think, once I figure out how to do it.

As in ring gear separated from pinion gears?

Yep.

It must have just been stuck before...bench tested it about 50 times, and it worked normally every single time. I bent the outer ring of the actuator slightly, from putting the detection switch back into the diff while it was in the car (you can't do this...the fat section of the switch's tip sits on the far side of the actuator, and there's not enough play in the switch to push it into the right place...the carrier MUST come out, the switch is then installed, and then the carrier goes back in so the tip of the switch is "stuck" on the far side of the actuator ring).

I didn't have time to take everything apart again, reinstall, and reset everything. So I grabbed the Dremel and cut the rod on the switch, so it's basically just an "upper drain plug" now. lol. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> Didn't really have any other options, it was dusk at the time.

Everything is bolted up and it's on it's wheels again; the only thing I didn't have time to do was refill the diff! I'll do that tomorrow morning and then test her out.

If anyone here has wired the rear diff light so it comes on with the pump (or when the R/D Lock switch is switched to ON)...if you could tell me where to splice the wires and what colors they were, I'd appreciate it. I'll report back tomorrow on the diff situation...if it locks as normal finally, I'll try to record a little demo tomorrow. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Sounds like youknow what youre doing. Did you also set the backlash properly?