|
|
 Brake Advice
#1058643
04/08/13 09:15 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
OP
Need a Spot
|
I did a search but did not find anything...please excuse me if this has been answered before. I need to do the brakes on my 99 Montero. I'm going to replace the front and rear rotors and front and rear pads. Two questions: 1. Does anyone have any suggestions on what brand replacement parts to use? Any positive experiences? Please keep in mind I'm a cheap bastard, but not so cheap that I want to spend so little the life/performance of the parts suck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Raybestos is running a promotion right now, but I'm not familiar with the quality of their products. 2. My next question ties in with the last part of my first. I plan on doing this myself rather than paying a shop. I used to do stuff like this regularly, but I've been without a garage for several years now and several moves have seen my tool selection shrink considerably unfortunately. Is there anything particularly hard about doing the brakes on this Montero I should be aware of? For example I'm never seen rear rotors ("Hat on rotor") like this that seem to have the emergency brake inside the rotor. Do I need to order any parts other than rear/front pads/rotors? Thanks for any/all help in advance.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058644
04/08/13 10:43 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,227
Web Wheeler
|
Not sure there's any advantage to OEM over aftermarket calipers or even rotors but for pads, I like the OEM pads myself.
As for tools, other than a standard metric wrench/socket set I also use a big c-clamp to help compress the caliper fully. A one man brake bleeding kit may also be helpful.
Luckily I haven't had to replace my rears yet.
HTH.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: off-roader]
#1058645
04/09/13 12:47 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,511
Body Damage is Cool
|
I liked the EBC pads that I used, but the Akebono ceramic pads I replaced them with don't stop nearly as well. I haven't used OEM pads to compare to but that may be the next set that I try.
95 Montero SR
3.8 MIVEC, Advance headers, 2 1/2" exhaust, Magnaflow muffler, OME shocks & rear springs, 2" body lift, 3" tank lift, 4.90s, TRE front locker, factory rear locker, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") tires, Sport big brakes
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058646
04/09/13 05:17 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,324
Body Damage is Cool
|
Are you sure you "need" rotors?
when you do a front rotor replacement you will be or should be doing front wheel bearing repack job also. The rotors are bolted onto the hub,,,not just slid over the wheels bolts.
You need the "special socket" top do wheel bear nut.
You can probably find a wrightup on how to in FAQs.
Check out Rockauto. They have all the seals, rotors, numerous brands of pads, many on closeout.
Last edited by KrzyDav; 04/09/13 05:22 AM.
dave h.
'89 Raider V6 5spd;Aisin Hubs;; Gen2 LS: frt. brakes, rear coils;U.C.arms;R.trailing arms;idler arm; rear LSD axle w.disc brakes ;2 battery system for Dog's fan; relocated ECU; custom bumpers;J.Baker receiver;Conferr roofrack; t-bar crank.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058647
04/09/13 07:42 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 715
Rock Warrior
|
I did a search but did not find anything...please excuse me if this has been answered before. I need to do the brakes on my 99 Montero. I'm going to replace the front and rear rotors and front and rear pads. Two questions: 1. Does anyone have any suggestions on what brand replacement parts to use? Any positive experiences? Please keep in mind I'm a cheap bastard, but not so cheap that I want to spend so little the life/performance of the parts suck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Raybestos is running a promotion right now, but I'm not familiar with the quality of their products. 2. My next question ties in with the last part of my first. I plan on doing this myself rather than paying a shop. I used to do stuff like this regularly, but I've been without a garage for several years now and several moves have seen my tool selection shrink considerably unfortunately. Is there anything particularly hard about doing the brakes on this Montero I should be aware of? For example I'm never seen rear rotors ("Hat on rotor") like this that seem to have the emergency brake inside the rotor. Do I need to order any parts other than rear/front pads/rotors? Thanks for any/all help in advance. It's pretty straightforward...14 and 17mm sockets and a brake caliper spreader/piston compressor is about all you need. Watch some vids on YouTube first. I am very happy with the Duralast ceramic pads I bought from VatoZone...And this is coming from a guy that buys $130 pads for his other cars. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Ceramic will be a little harder on the rotor, but personally, I put stopping power first and rotor life second. Organic will be easiest on the rotor, but have the lowest friction. Semi-metallic will be in between the two. They were $35 each end (front or rear). <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Last edited by socalmonty; 04/09/13 07:45 AM.
Sean - Orange County, CA MAIL: seanwilliams78@gmail.com1995 Montero SR - For exploring and getting away! 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo - 402hp and counting! 1966 VW Bug 2275cc - For stoplight drags!
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058648
04/09/13 02:55 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
OP
Need a Spot
|
I knew the brakes needed some work because I could feel it. They had gotten wooden feeling and the stopping power seemed to have degraded over the past few months. I just got an oil change at NTB this past weekend and asked them to check the brakes. They said I needed new rear pads and new front rotors. It was funny because they did not say I needed new front pads, but in all the brake jobs I've ever done, I've never heard of replacing the rotors and NOT replacing the pads. Anyway, I just figured I'd replace the pads and rotors all-around, but after looking at the rear rotor setup on the Montero, I'm thinking I'll leave those rotors alone if they are within spec (according to NTB)and just replace the rear pads and do both pads and rotors on the front. I had not considered repacking the bearings, but maybe I'll spend the time doing that I'm saving on not doing the rear rotors.  Thanks for all the suggestions.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058649
04/09/13 03:12 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,211
Trail Leader
|
It's hard to see the inner surface on the rear rotors with the wheels on. My rears looked fine until I was able to see the inner surface. I replaced them as soon as I saw how torn up they were. It's very, very simple to do.
I've heard good things about Hawk HPS pads.
Ceramic pads offer less dust, but stopping power is not their forte.
John B.
'87 Raider 2.6 Turbo Auto, Under Construction
'95 Montero SR, 35x12.5/15 BFG M/T KM-2's, Rock sliders, Qtr panel chop, gas tank lift, 2" BL, Aisins, 5.29s
'95 Pajero Mini
'98 Montero Winter Ed.
'04 Cadillac XLR
'03 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
'60 Ford Falcon 4Dr
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058650
04/09/13 05:40 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 120
Wheeler
|
The rear rotors are a piece of cake to replace. Don't worry about the e-brake inside - it doesn't really complicate anything. You might have to adjust it slightly if it rubs too tight against the new rotor, but that is simple to do. The front rotors are much more complicated as they are integrated into the bearing/hub assembly. They don't just pop off like most cars. See this thread I've had BAD experiences with Raybestos reman calipers. The quality seemed really sloppy to me. Rubber seals were put on crooked, bleeder screw threads were worn, and a couple of them rusted horribly and seized within a year. I've had much less trouble with autozone/advance house brands and Beck Arnley.
98 Montero, 184k.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: WigWiggy]
#1058651
04/09/13 08:25 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,356
Trail Leader
|
The front rotors are much more complicated as they are integrated into the bearing/hub assembly. They don't just pop off like most cars. See this threadIf you live in the rust belt like I do, a floor standing press is a godsend for getting the rotors off. At least, for the first time (I swath some anti-sieze on when I put them back together). I have swung the BFH hard before and had a hell of a time getting them to budge. The press is your friend, and some Blaster of course...
Last edited by MontyMcV; 04/09/13 08:26 PM.
Big Truck: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 5-Spd drive line in hand! Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 65k Daughter's: 06 Eclipse, Keeping it Mitsu! FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
|
|
|
Re: Brake Advice
[Re: speedtre]
#1058652
04/09/13 09:23 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
OP
Need a Spot
|
Again, thanks for the additional advice guys...sounds like I should go ahead and replace the rear rotors as well and avoid Raybestos...
|
|
|
|
