I have heard that the starion 88-89 rear end LSD will bolt into the front of the 1990 v6 Monter, for of all is this true? and if it is what is involved?

I have the engine out would it be alot more easy with the engine out to do this or from the bottom?

Thanks alot for any information!!

MonTurbo, back at the track! Good to see you back on here!

Other than that, I can't contribute anything useful towards this thread.

John B.

This montero already has rear LSD just i heard could put front in that would give it alot more traction! altho probly rear lsd is all it needs for track, the last monturbo didnt have any lsd.

Speaking of the Monturbo just found out that it was having intake valve float.... and the intake valves put a small nitch in all 4 of the pistions! So before i put a different head back on it (useing the same engine from the old monturbo) I will install some HD valve springs!

Bolt it in. Might need to shim. I didn't, nor did I see if it needed, but also haven't wheeled mine much.

Make sure to use new c-clips for the front shafts. There are past discussions with some who have had the shafts pop out under full drop. No clear understanding of what was happening. Kevin C had som egood thoughts on it. IIRC, some that experienced it reused their c-clips. No one had problems other than under tougher wheeling conditions, as i recall.

Is it easy to do from below, of would it be more easy from above(with engine gone)? Almost looked like need to remove the steering rack.
What about how it performs on and off road? Now with just LSD in the rear it has a tendicy to push straight in bad conditions when your trying to turn, what is it like with 4w lsd?
Thanks alot!!!

It's obviously going to be easier unbolting everything while the engine is out. I think I was standing int he engine bay when I did it last time I helped Larry install an Aussie locker in the front of his truck.

To answer the original question - It bolts right in so it's a matter of setting your gears, etc again but it's well worth it. Make sure you buy NEW C-clips on the axles. with the extra load on the axles and any pull that can occur from full droop, they love to pop out (especially the long shaft).

(StockRaider) is using that now - he had a spacer machined to offset the pull on the CV at full droop due to cracking up the IFS in the front.

LSD front and rear is aweseome - especially with snow wheeling. Not so great in an icy parking lot, though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Oh, to answer the performance question...let's see. In a FWD car, it would tend to pull you into the corner, rather than push (understeer) out of it. It would also allow you to come on power sooner. Since on road I assume you're driving around RWD, it wouldn't have any effect.

In 4WD driving, clutch type is decent as it typically engages even though one tire is lifted. With some other types, the LSD fails to operate if a tire loses contact with the ground (they require some resistance/differential between the two wheels to operate).

I know that with my rear LSD on my Gen1, I had to operate the e-brake to engage it sometimes. Not sure if that was because it was worn, but I doubt it (I don't think it was ever engaged by the previous owners...it was a soccer mom truck). So I'm not sure how that translates to the front axle...ie, how soon it would engage, and under exactly what conditions. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

The LSD if in working order works very effectively. Back in the 90's we did the 'con in my old blue 1990 with 33's, removed rear antisway bar & an LSD. No other traction aids were needed.

Here is how I did it LINK

Thanks! all though looking at it looks like about twice the work I thought!