One more time. The BS's counter a second order shaking force which is caused by the piston pin offset in ALL I4 engines. In a large I4 like the 2.6 the problem is severe. The offset pin causes the pistons to move at different speeds on the up and down stroke, causing the engine to rock back and forth. Balancing the engine will do nothing to eliminate this force. I broke a handfull of ps pump brackets, and the alloy a/c bracket broke into a dozen pieces, and the alt bracket broke several times. I also broke about 4 motor mounts. You could not see if the car following you was a cop or a semi at cruise because all the rv mirrors vibrated so much it was all a blur.

The power drain is negligible. I would never build a 2.6 without the shafts. Porsche thought so much of the bs tech that they licensed the use from mitsu for the 924/944.

Okay. Riddle me this:

I get into the nitty gritty. Spin things around a dozen or so times, none of the timing marks line up for sh*t. Say what? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

4G63 - set belt to marks, spin it around a couple times, make sure marks are still good.
420A - set belt to marks, spin it around a couple times, make sure marks are still good.
G54B - set chain, spin it around a couple times, nothing lines up. Spin it some more, still don't line up. Spin, spin, spin, spin, spin. Marks never line up again. Pull cam sprocket bolt, pull guides, pull oil pump and balance shaft , start the eff over again. Same thing happens.

I decided to leave the balance shafts in after all. Had one of the chain guide bolts in the oil pan. Two of the front case bolts were completely loose, just too long to fall out (even with blue Loctite on them).

The deeper I get into this, the more I realize there's no friggin' way I could have timed it wrong with the balance shafts out of phase. When #1 is TDC, both balance shafts are pointing downward. Per the FSM, the mark on the lower/left/oil shaft is about 7 o'clock and the upper/right is about 12:30, with the crank sprocket indexed on a key. I've tried to intentionally time the balance shafts out of phase. Can't do it.

So, while I put this damn thing back together again, what theories does the group have as to why, as the tach crosses 2000rpm, the vibrations get so bad, the mirrors are useless, and half the sheetmetal on the truck buzzes? This vibration goes away as you pass 3000rpm, is all but gone at 75mph.

I've just wasted a Saturday, it seems. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Its a bit of a mystery! Since my engine in the starion is smooth till you let off without any noticeable vibration at any rpm, but other engines Ive had........... was terrible!

About the broken Power steering pump brackets, almost all of them get a crack, I have like 5 of them (was recently looking for them) and pretty much all are cracked but only one would be unusable, some of them was with bs and some without, basically I think not so good design.

That said the theory behind it is sound, but you must do the maintenance to back it up! Replace the bearings when you do the chain, adjust the chain a few times between replacing the chain, and need to make sure your oil pump is 100%.
And fact is some 2.6's run alot more vibration free then others for no apparent reason.

Put it all back together, got big pop when connecting battery. 100A ALT link by battery is smoked.

Only disconnected bat, alt, cap/coil. Alt only connects one way, right? 10mm nut on post, plastic plug?

Gutted. Ideas?

I will throw my 2 pennys in, my Conquest Sti build has Bs removed.
I have put over 10.000 miles on and offroad with no vibration in all rpm ranges. I may be 1 out of 5 but I do agree, the less moving parts the less that (Can fail). Its really up to you and what you feel good about. The 4G64 build I did is also a none Bs motor. My friend builds some of the the best 4G motors with none Bs kits.
Here is one we just finished up <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdYEDhjzwe0&feature=youtu.be

Something is shorted to ground. I'd make sure you did not pinch any wires, or drop something on the starter leads... like a nut/bolt/washer/wrench.

Called in "dead" today. Not going to work. Gonna head out in a few to trace the wires from the starter and alternator. Hope this is something simple.

By the way, it took a little effort to get the 100A link out. Ended up leaving posts behind. Is that right? I've got a dozen of these in smaller ratings, and they always seem to just pull right out, but this guy seemed to fight. Murphy's Law, it's probably supposed to stay in there, right?

And how might I check the sub-fusible links on the driver's side? Didn't really see much on troubleshooting them in the FSM.

Thanks.

Fusible links will be burned in half if they're bad.

John B.

Mine have bolts running through the blades.

FYI -