You could maybe put a twelve row radiator in these trucks and still have an overheating problem. The water pump needs to be higher flow, in my humble opinion.

John B.

Actually with my 2 row and elcetric fan it never even thought about trying to overheat, our fan clutches are massive pieces of [censored]

Electric fan's really do help the overheating problem. The only problem, It's one more electronic to fail when your in the middle of know where. No fan, no cooling, Big freakin problem. Also, a big issue is the type of fan's we need to run in our trucks here in AZ. If we want to keep up with cooling here for summer wheeling, you need a monstrous fan, which puts it REALLY close to your motor. Which then the fan could be eaten by the motor. We have already seen it happen to one. I'm really curious to see how this dual pass Rad works. If it works the way I hope it does then that will be the route I go for all my trucks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

When you get it and have ran it for awhile definitely post back how it's working for you. The guy at Chandler Radiator said that my OEM current radiator was plugged up pretty bad, was cracked on the top tank and had at least one tube leaking so I choose to have him just rod/repair it for now and will consider my options for down the road.

My stock, rodded radiator worked fine last summer, as so far this summer. Should keep you cool for a while until you want to go a better route. The only time my truck has gotten what I would consider warm was last summer, wheeling when it was 117?. Other than that, it's been just fine.

I know you guys aren't talking about gen1's, but when I couldn't keep my gen1's temperature under control I went to a huge engine oil cooler. It ended the problem.

WW your not the first person i've read that went with a big oil cooler and had good luck with it slaying the heat beast.

Ok, got the radiator back yesterday. Shop said that of the 118 tubes in it, only 36 flowed so it was 70% blocked. It was full of stop leak.

The use of stop leak concerns me because now that crud can be inside the engine passages causing restrictions. Hoping a good flush is all it needs.

Torch, Prestone makes both a "Super Flush" and a "Radiator Cleaner." The second one gets poured into plain water in the cooling system and stays in there for a while (can't remember how long), so it cleans a lot better. Might be something to consider.

I also like using a Prestone flush and fill kit to flush the cooling system out from the heater core hoses toward the front. You can leave the tee on there and cap it or just replace the hose you spliced into to install it when you are done.

I also try to do my final fill mix with distilled water rather than water from the hose to cut down on minerals.

Sounds like you should be good to go with a restored stock rad. Keep us posted.

John B.

I recently picked up a 94 Taurus SHO for Stacey to drive around and the previous owner had, at some point, installed one of those kits with the "T" - no idea how long ago - but shortly after I acquired the car and got it running well, the "T"shattered and left me stranded a long walk away from an auto parts store.

Good exercise, but awfully inconvenient and unpleasant. I wouldn't leave that extra failure point on a vehicle Good idea to replace the hose if you're going to use one.