Good point, Maximize your 3.0's stock power and then look into a turbo.

Turbo manifold

You could pick this up, it's a rear manifold though not sure if it would face the right direction, you might need the front manifold.

WW made many, many good points in his post - getting your existing motor's maintenance up to date and making sure it's tuned up properly can make a world of difference. Some Iridium plugs and Magnecor wires will almost certainly improve how well it runs, and an exhaust system that's 1/4" larger than stock with a performance muffler will make the truck feel faster just by the sound of the exhaust note if nothing else. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

ok after removing the cross bar from underneath the tranny, I can see the problem areas. I cleaned it up really good and use engine cleaner down there. First things first, the bolts for the tranny pan were very loose. most specifically on the shallow end. I could if needed loosen with my fingers. Im not sure what the specs are but I tighten them down a bit only to see tranny fluid seep out with each turn. [fixed]. Also the speedo gear looks to be leaking. explains why I thought it was gear oil. The transfer case seals seem to be fine so i'll hold on to the dealer bought ones as I'm sure i'll need them eventually. Any suggestions on gaskets? dealer only? Looks like the pan one is a gasket, and perhaps the speedo uses an oil seal? thanks in advance.

edit
Called around to the stealership and they want 27.00 for the transpan gasket which seems a little crazy and would take approx 7 days. I leave for lake powell in 4 days. The original used a paper gasket. I called around locally to the NAPAS/Autozone and they have one for $5 but its made of rubber. any opinions

Also it looks like the speedometer gear uses a 35mm o ring. Do they usually go by inside diameter? these need to be special ordered. dealer wants 3$ or something and napa wants 1$. The biggest issue is not the cost but the waiting game. in term of trans pan gasket, I can imagine most manufacturer probably use rubber these days.

You can use Permatex Copper gasket maker and forgo the gasket altogether, just make sure you get the gasket surfaces on both the transmission and pan extremely clean and follow the gasket maker instructions exactly.

Take your old speedo o-ring off and match it up to the new one to make sure you get the right size - the one at NAPA should work fine. If the Montero is your only vehicle then take the o-ring off and measure it carefully - I.D. & O.D. - so you get the correct replacement.

I put it in neutral and ran rut for about 30 seconds just t get the last bits of ATF out. I'm getting paranoid about the valavaline +4 synthetic only because if I put synthetic in my old bikes they tend to get "leaky".

But w cars I have know idea if we have the same issues.

Also does 2.5 quarts sound about right?

New leaks when switching to a synthetic oil from dino oil is a common problem - I've heard that its due to the synthetic oil having smaller molecules than the big long chains of hydrocarbon molecules in dino oil, but I don't know that for sure. That being said, I'm a firm believer in synthetic ATF, especially here in AZ with our high summer temps. I'm running an aftermarket transmission cooler in addition to the factory trans cooler, plus synthetic ATF, so that my transmission doesn't go up in smoke when I'm towing a trailer or rock crawling. I think the extra cost is well worth the extra protection.

Make sure after you top off the trans you fire it back up and let it idle for a bit, then shift through the gears, then re check. Do that once or twice, then take it for a drive and then come back and check one more time. The problem with the trans is it stores SO MUCH trans fluid you will never totally drain it out on your own. Ever. Unless you pay a shop to flush it or you disassemble the entire thing old fluid still remain. I think the tranny takes up to around 8 quarts or something ridiculous like that. If I remember right, I'm pretty sure when I drained the sport i was able to get 4 quarts out of it. Just check over the next day or two after you drive it to make sure it stays topped off. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

tranny pan bolts take 2.9-3.6 ft lbs of torque.

when you get back from your trip and have time to tear into it pulling the injectors and sending them out to be cleaned and flow matched will be a good idea along with getting a new fuel pump old pumps can't keep the psi constant under demand and the fact its hot as all get out here doesn't make it any easier on them. napa also carriers the injector o rings for the fuel rail aswell.

Thanks for the heads up. My torque wrench just isnt sensitive enough for that minute of a reading. but i did just use my small ratchet and went with the feel.

AS for the injectors and stuff, I'll dive in when that presents a problem. Currently the truck is running pretty damn good. but I'll certainly look into those when needed.

as for the ATF there seems to be no "right" brand or kind. some say synthetic, others say dextron2 and up. other say D SPII or else your tranny is dead. I think I'll take my chances here with... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

but once again thanks for all the input and help. Much appreciated and hope I can pay it forward at some point.