A couple Aussies have drilled and tapped the output to eliminate the slipyoke at the transfer case. I'd go for it.

Thats what i will do along with a double cardan shaft. I will point my pinion at the tcase and leave it ready for now. I wont experience any vibes since the shaft wont turn in 2wd.

Do you have a link to any of this hack and tap info?
Thanks

I ended up using a GM steering box and putting it where it was needed on the frame to match the steering stuff from the axle. All of mine uses stock steering components.... = cheap. It's not a high steer setup because it is not needed...

If you are looking for cheap, things like changing caster / pinion angle, high steer, SOA, are going to bomb your budget all up.

Welding to cast is tricky as im sure you know.. I would not want to do it.

Shackle reverse does a few things, but mainly it changes which direction your axle moves (towards or away from the transfer case) depending on if you are compressing the leafs, or unloading them. This needs to be taken into account when you start measuring for a driveshaft.

I really think SOA is going to end you up with way way too much lift, and be un necessary anyway.

Once i get it on the stands and cut the ifs off i will start mocking everything up. Who knows i might just break down and go spring under <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> but i would love spring over with high steer.

Stock wagoneer springs. 35's This is the stock configuration that the axle lives in when it was under the wagoneer. (minus the shackle reverse)

Thanks. It's for sale btw.

I want that so bad. So, quickest way to do the 87 is just use the Wagoneer like it's stock. For the 89 I would want to use a 44 out of TJ, since it has the spring buckets, right? The 44 is said to be 2" wider, wider than what? The stock LSD rear or the SR rear axle? Sounds perfect if'n it's wider than the LSD, since the SR is wider anyways.

Send me a PM... we can deal... Cmon up and get it.



Yep. Cheapest and easiest.



This I don't have much experience with. IF I were going to go with a coil setup I'd def use a coil axle to begin with, OR have a seriously damn good idea about what went where. MANY MANY measurements need to be made to duplicate a stock setup, and MANYYYYY more to build something custom.

Again.. if it were me, and I wanted to go coils, I would duplicate a long arm kit as best I could.




Wagoneer 62.5inches from WMS. IIRC the Factory gen1 axle is 59. The Montero Sport and SR axles are ~61 IIRC...

A wagoneer axle matches an SR axle perfectly.

That thing is bad<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> LandRaider <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

This has been very slow. Ive worked only a handfull of hours on this since i have very little time and very little money. Anyways, my question the following. Im outboarding the leaf springs to keep a low COG and be able to stay SOA for clearance. To be able to use the flat part of the frame (to avoid the bend and having to go wider between perches) i have decided to push the axle forward. BTW the pring perches are only an inch wider than the stock for this wagoneer diff. This leaves the front axle about 4 inches forward i believe. Has anyone done this? Im wondering what kind of trimming will be required.

So here are some pics. Ive only tack welded stuff so far for fitment purposes. I paid 20 bucks for my leaf springs in a locar surplus center, i dont know what these leaves came out of but they looked adequate and i liked their length which is about 46-47 inches. They look like rancho 44044 but i have no numbers.

I appreciate any and all constructive criticism and i expect a lot since this is my first project vehicle so i have no previous fab experience. I know i have to deal with steering, sway bar, brakes and other stuff... This feels like an open can of worms but i like to learn from my mistakes... Trial and error all the way.




Buddy from Honduras helping with the welds