Gas gauge isn't working either, LT. Also, could you please look for that oil pressure sender I need? I'll wait to change the oil until that gets here, I guess.

Truck is sitting back at normal ride height, thanks to the air gun on the torsion bar adjusters (the only way to go on those bolts, if you ask me).

I may have a small transmission oil leak at the pan, but I haven't really looked at things yet. I did spill some trans fluid when I filled through the dipstick hole since you have to pour so slowly and I got impatient and/or had to pee.

Apparently I have to physically visit a DMV office to re-register this thing. Back in 2011 when I pulled it off the road, I de-insured it, which is the proper way to go about things like this, and they are all demanding some kind of proof that I'm legit again. I can still get a three day permit to run it through emissions when I'm ready, though.

I noticed yesterday when I attempted to start it, that it took about 30 attempts to get it to run, at which time it ran just fine. The other times, it would seem to want to start at first crank, but if I continued to turn the engine over, it would just be dead. I have to cycle the key from run to start, run to start, over and over, then it gets closer to starting/running until it magically catches. Any ideas here?

When it cold starts, it seems to run better if the MAF is disconnected. Once it warmed up, I was able to plug in the MAF and after it hunted idle for a few, it settled in. Is it doing some learning or is it something else? I have another MAF I could try if someone thinks it may be giving me a hard time.

Now it's out to the driveway to try to adjust the transmission linkage so I have reverse and park. The transfer case shifter doesn't do anything, so I hope it's in 2WD for the time being...

John B.