The truck was able to be driven about ten feet to the end of the driveway to get a HoseB wash yesterday. The shift linkage is off enough that it starts off in neutral (when it should be in park), so I have no reverse. I'll look at that tonight.

Catalytic converter is on order.

Still no leaks...amazing...

John B.

I'll try and dig up that fan spacer and bring it over saturday i was thinking bout the wiring and i pretty sure i still need to wire the thermostat to the gauge and some other small things i can't think of right now i'll make note of them as i remember. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Gas gauge isn't working either, LT. Also, could you please look for that oil pressure sender I need? I'll wait to change the oil until that gets here, I guess.

Truck is sitting back at normal ride height, thanks to the air gun on the torsion bar adjusters (the only way to go on those bolts, if you ask me).

I may have a small transmission oil leak at the pan, but I haven't really looked at things yet. I did spill some trans fluid when I filled through the dipstick hole since you have to pour so slowly and I got impatient and/or had to pee.

Apparently I have to physically visit a DMV office to re-register this thing. Back in 2011 when I pulled it off the road, I de-insured it, which is the proper way to go about things like this, and they are all demanding some kind of proof that I'm legit again. I can still get a three day permit to run it through emissions when I'm ready, though.

I noticed yesterday when I attempted to start it, that it took about 30 attempts to get it to run, at which time it ran just fine. The other times, it would seem to want to start at first crank, but if I continued to turn the engine over, it would just be dead. I have to cycle the key from run to start, run to start, over and over, then it gets closer to starting/running until it magically catches. Any ideas here?

When it cold starts, it seems to run better if the MAF is disconnected. Once it warmed up, I was able to plug in the MAF and after it hunted idle for a few, it settled in. Is it doing some learning or is it something else? I have another MAF I could try if someone thinks it may be giving me a hard time.

Now it's out to the driveway to try to adjust the transmission linkage so I have reverse and park. The transfer case shifter doesn't do anything, so I hope it's in 2WD for the time being...

John B.

the start thing is a cold start loop issue i addressed this on adams old 2.4 swap still need to do it on kevins i'll have to go over my notes if i remember right i just needed to make sure the ecu was getting feed back from the temp sensor o2 sensor and maf i remember having to run a couple extra wires then all was well. the fuel gauge issue shouldn't have anything to do with the swap could be bad sending unit in the take i can put a meter on that or even simpler like it got unplugged. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
So far my list of things to get are
wire tach
wire temp gauge
being oil sending unit
I think i'll pull the temp sensor off the 2.6 and bring it just in case the range is different.
fix the ignition issue which sounds like i need to move something from a constant to a keyed position.

oh yeah the fuel pump will only run when the ecu pulses the injectors so thats why you hear it during cranking, i've learned if you bypass the mpi relay and make it run constantly under ignition power the engine is hard to start very interesting i think haztoys and i lighty talked about this a couple years back.

The key cycling is a 'no run of the pump on started at the key' ...I would think... One way to deal with it is a wire at the keyed wire at the starter to relay to pump.. A diode at the ECU wire to the pump so you dont back feed the ecu

The catalytic converter is on. BTW, a stock replacement one that bolts onto the stock exhaust downpipes fits just fine under the Montero. I used the look-up for a 1990 MM with the same 2.4, then switched to the 1986 Montero for the rear exhaust section which should be here mid-next week.

It just didn't want to start for me today though. I'll have LT wave a wand over it or whatever he does. That electrical stuff is too much for my brain.

John B.

got it starting today but i'm gonna need to put a diode in somewhere pretty interesting as when you key off the ignition stays hot so truck won't turn off unless you cut the wire or unplug the mpi relay <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> i ran out of time today but i'll get back in there this week i'm kinda thinking i need to add the diode in the alternator circuit. i'm overlooking something as i havn't had that problem with any of the other 2 swaps i'm not worried about it i'll figure it out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I picked up an $8 set of metric O-rings at Harbor Freight today. Hopefully it has the correct sizes for the leaking hose on the top of the power steering pump. I moved one o-ring on the pump over from the pump that came out of the truck after I determined an attached-reservoir pump can't be used there. May have damaged it in the process.

I have a transmission leak. Initially it looked like it was from the front of the transmission oil pan, but a closer look says it's coming from directly above there, where the bellhousing joins the case. That doesn't look promising, but I'll have to check into it a bit more.

Exhaust should be here Wednesday. Provided I can get it hung under the truck, I can run it up to a muffler shop and have them complete the tubing. Tires need to be balanced (last guy to try obviously didn't know his stuff and used way too much weight). An alignment may need to be done; doesn't look quite squared up to my eye. Then emissions and the DMV hell.

I'm going to need a bigger bag of money.

John B.

The '86 still has the terrible, terrible cold start problem. It probably took in excess of 100 attempts at turning the key this afternoon before it would run. As it gets closer, it will almost start, but not catch fire. Holding the key at start does nothing to improve it, so it's still run-start,run-start, repeat.

Once it starts, it runs better without the MAF. Once it warms up, it runs much better with the MAF connected.

Sometimes the gas gauge works and sometimes it doesn't.

The power steering seems to be fixed.

I can't seem to hook up the transmission kick down cable to the bellcrank Haztoys gave me. The bellcrank is looking for an end with the barrel shaped plug on it whereas the cable I have has an end you put a bolt through. Maybe it will come to me in the night.

The consoles inside for covering the shifters needs to be figured out, but that's not an immediate need. Not sure how much this swap altered the position of the shifters from stock, but a quick glance says neither the 86 nor 87 consoles work; maybe I'm wrong, not sure.

The transmission fluid is still terrible. The fluid stinks and looks to be contaminated with water. Going to need to flush it again. I also had to add some cooling system cleaner/flush, because after the thermostat opened the other day, all the water got that rusty hue and I obviously don't want that contaminating the coolant, once it goes in.

Exhaust is delayed a day and won't be here until Thursday.

John B.

Unless you don't like the Monty, I'd figure you only want the engine to run. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />