Well I just got another Monty <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Found the misfire is on 3-6 then discovered the coil not getting signal from transistor then found pin 11(or 12) on the ECU was not sending a signal.
So be before I try and find another ECU any chance of a sensor making the ECU think its a four banger<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Any recommend repair places? Is it even repairable? I didn't see any damage from leaking compacters or anything

Is that the black SR from Fredericks? If so the previous owner never got back to me about it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

i have a good ecu

Pin 11. That pin is connected to a resistor and a power transistor in the ecu. Perhaps that power trnasisitor is bad. I would contact av-pro and see if they can repair it cheap.

I just happen to get one off ebay for 8 bucks if its faulty I'll contact you.

Yeah signal from pin 11 isn't being sent from the ECU to the transistor. So its not the ICM(what auto parts call it). I'm wondering what if the crank isnt sending the right signal to the ECU. Could that make the ECU not send signal to the ICM on just one coil?
During my extensive searching of older posts I found that Av-pro didnt have a good rep and they could not fix all problems but only the leaky capacitor problem. Anyways I got a ECU coming in the mail.

Given that the other cylinders are firing fine, I would not suspect the crank sensor. Might be the cam sensor, but my guess is the ecu. At worst, you could take out the ecu power transistor and resistor connected to pin 11 and replace it in yours. Since you have already confirmed that the signal is not coming from the ecu, I do not suspect the power transistor array. There are other suspect parts in the ecu, but I don't have an ecu schematic to go from other than the very minor one showing the resistor and PT on the fsm wiring diagram.

Well, finally got the ECU now it wont even start. So I bought a cam sensor. Tested, now PT is receiving signal from 10,11,23 from ECU. Guess thats fixed. I didn't test after the ECU just figured if that didn't fix it next step is cam.
Now for the no start. On the PT it's marked cc1cc2cc3 so I thought I had my wires mixed up cause they go to coil 2 1 then 3.(I now believe this was correct) So with lots of swapping I got the truck to run with complete opposite setup coil 3,2 then 1. This ran with a slight miss on #3 had codes 22, 23 for cam and crank sensors. And would shut off after ~10 seconds.
Im guessing this means nothing. Back to the drawing board...

Well, it's a waste spark system, so if you get it backward, It still runs, but you are gettin a positive spark instead of a negative, which may cause some electrode erosion on the plug. No help on the rest of the problem yet. I'll noodle it some.

Well, I decide to look at the timing and see if its right.
Oh, boy the things I found.
First the crank bolt was loose. It came out with a fight. Many times I thought it was going to snap off. I just kept screwing it in and out, in and out. I only had a 14x1.5 rethreader which wasnt long enough so I ordered a tap. Seems fixable...
Then. The key way. Then the sensor ring was free to spin. Now the crank pulley was super rusty stuck on so, I think my bashing and prying loosened the rust seal to the sensor plate. So I think it was attached before I got the crank off. But that key way... I guess thats messing with my spark. Well that and the red clay rust goo covering the sensor...