Just thought I'd share this. Probably been shared and done already but I found this out after several unsuccesful attempts to torque the crank bolt without the special tool.

1. Buy the longest generic V-belt from Ace hardware

2. Cut V-Belt so it is no longer a continuous loop

3. Place V-belt into the groove on the pulley and wrap either CW or CCW over itelf.

4. Tie the other end of the V-belt to a cheater bar or other strong large metal/pipe.

5. As you rotate the crank the breaker bar with brace against frame and axle preventing the crank from moving.

6. Torque away!

This has worked for me many times and it's pretty hassle free. Hope this helps.

Nice Tip.

I'll have to take a picture later this week of my method. I don't really like it but it is effective.

It requires the engine to be on an engine stand. I actually use a bolt in the back of the crankshaft and a pipe to stop the crank from rotating. One of these days I think I'll torque too hard and break a bolt in the back of the crankshaft where the drive plate gets installed.

I always liked the impact gun method. I feel like the crank bolt, unlike say a head bolt, doesn't need a perfect torque. Like the germans say goodentight... will.

I'm a barbarian on this. I use a breaker bar on the crank bolt, handle resting on the frame rail, and bump the starter to break it loose. I tighten it with a 4lb. dead blow hammer. Never came loose, never broke a bolt...

i found a tip on here that worked well. I cut down an old belt and wrapped it around the harmonic balancer as protection, and then used a chain wrench over that. it's pretty easy too.

Nice I like this, it's pretty neat to hear all the innovative ways to get er done. Hopefully helps someone down the road. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Mine broke loose pretty easy and unscrewed about 1/4" then stopped. I borrowed a 1/2"impact ratchet that I'm going to try tomorrow. I'm hoping that I don't break anything. The bolt is right hand thread correct?

Yes it is, and the impact gun should work just fine.

John B.

Another impact user here. Never had a problem.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Okay guys, I said I would take some pictures earlier and I did.

In this series of pictures, you will notice that I have the engine block on the engine stand. This is my method of how I torque the crankshaft bolt to 135 lbs/ft. The reason I don't like this method is that I always fear that I will bend the drive plate bolt or it will shear off.

Step #1. Install the Crankshaft bolt washer and bolt.


Step #2. Install one of the drive plate bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft. Make sure it is in deep enough that you get a good amount of threads engaged but not so deep that the "handle" will not fully brace against it. (You can just make out the drive plate bolt I'm referring to sticking out about an inch in this photo.)


Step #3. Using the Engine Stand's "handle", wedge it between the engine stand support posts and the drive plate bolt.


Step #4. Now I simply use my torque wrench set to 100 lbs/ft and gradually step it up to 135 lbs/ft.