That Mazda diesel is a fine engine, but at 60hp and 89 ft/lbs torque it is going to be way under powered for a MM. Not sure why your mileage is so poor. When I had my 4G54 I would consistantly get 19 to 20mpg pushing 33s. Weber carb it.

plh,

Thanks for the motor compliment. They were prone to head issues if they over heated but other than that I have found them to be pretty bullet proof and wanted to put the possibility out there if it would work or not and see what people here thought .

As for my 2.6L MM. It has the factory carb on it. It had it in it since day one. I believe it is a Mikuni.

When my dad bought it the Motor was new and the carb was rebuilt. All tested properly and the smog test the pervious owner had done on it shortly B4 my dad bought it showed it past that as well. It was running properly and was unpowered even then IMO.

Was yours a 4x4 Macro cab spx with the 5 speed and auto free hubs?

When I did a net search a while back it showed the 4x2 factory fuel economy at 19 city and 21 highway.

Add a macro cab and a 4x4 and auto free hubs and it will drop significantly. I sold cars and 4x4 are no where near as good on gas and then add the macro cab weight and the hubs and it cuts it a bit more.

My pops says he got 16MPG on long trips but on average it got 15MPG. Until it started to run bad recently it got 15 MPG from what I saw. Now it gets 7 MPG and needs attention. I think I know what's wrong now but I need to get a vacuum tester to find out. My tester is missing.

Many I have spoken to that own these with a 4x4 or the Dodge D-50 have said they do not get 20MPG. About 16 to 18 tops is what I hear many say.

Is that everyone's opinion? Of course not but its what I have seen and heard so getting 20MPG with this 4x4 Macro cab with auto hubs probably will not happen no matter how well it runs

What have you folks seen with your gas mileage on the 4x4's so I am certain I am getting accurate info?

The 4d55/56 engine has been in production for 34 years and is still in production and being used in new vehicles around the world. Parts are easy to come by if you know where to look. I recently purchased a new crate motor for a restoration project. They are great little motors.

I also think the 2.6 is a great little motor and you are not giving it enough credit. The Mitsubishi Starion equipped with the 2.6 TSI engine was faster than a Porcshe 944.The Starion is a highly respected sportscar. My guess is your 2.6 is not running correctly. The 2.6 should have no issues moving your little truck. I had an 85 Ram 50 and it had no issues pulling steep mountain passes at 70mph.

This is what I was trying to say, and what I think you aren't listing to or possibly wanting to hear. I am genuinely sorry if I offended you.

The version of this motor found in the Ford Escort only produced 52hp and 74ft lbs of torque. The numbers you listed were for the Euro version of this motor. The output of this motor is identical to the 1.6L diesel engine produced by VW.

I assure you that you did not offend me at all. You only irritated me a little bit because I am not saying and never said I was going to do the swap. I wanted to see if it was possible that's all because I have 2 of those 2.0L motors. I wanted your folks opinion on what challenges it would create. I saw the 2.0L diesel put in other small trucks so I thought I would ask other opinions here. Was I supposed to just start a thread and not ask questions?

I already knew the truck was not running correctly because as I am sure you know I have a transfer case thread and a thread on the sputtering engine and asked all your folks opinion on cause.

I am not trying to trash the 2.6L motor. Its a good motor but for my truck even when it ran perfectly it seemed to be wayyy underpowered and got a MPG that was not so great but consistent with what others who own them have said they get.

I am assuming if it was a 4x2 and a regular cab and had manual locking hubs that I could get a MPG around that 20 mark and it would do better in the hills do to being much lighter.

But as it stands I have been around this truck for some time and several others like it and they seem to struggle on hills on the E-way and many report this. In the city and below 55 they are just fine. At 70 or 75 on the e-way when hitting hills they are underpowered for the truck itself IMO. That is no reflection on the quality of the motor at all.

My goggle search I did long before ever coming here on this issue shows people saying the truck is underpowered for E-way driving when approaching hills.

If I get it back running 100% the way it was and it can pass smog then why would it struggle on big hills at 65 or 70?

Believe me on this issue I do not suffer from the ailment of bias and hearing or not hearing what I want. I only try to explain my situation and position and get as much available info from as many sources as possible to determine the best course of action.

If you took that the wrong way then I am sorry and it was not my intention.

Just so you guys know the actual number on the 2.0L diesels in case it ever comes up again they are as follows,

1984 to 1987

2.0 L diesel SOHC

52hp @ 4000rpm

82ft lbs @ 2400rpm

I own 2 of them currently and have owned others in the past so of trust me those numbers are 100% correct. The motor stopped being used by ford in mid 87.

If ever curious about actual numbers on any engine the "Mechanical database" will give you the exact numbers you seek.

I do thank you all for your help and input on the potential of a motor swap like this and believe it or not it was helpful. I am not a master mechanic but I do know how to fix cars and I can rebuild a motor if need be. Rebuilding a tranny....Not so much!! I am sure I could do it with a repair manual and proper instruction within and time.

Sometimes it takes me a while to track down an issue but in time I get er done and rarely take my cars to the shop. Well that's not true. My wife's new Highlander is a hard motor to work on if it broke. These new motors are no so easy as these old ones.

When I saw the carb on the MM 2.6L I almost fell over and now I have to get really educated on it. The darn thing is over inganeered and you need to go to a 5 day class just to figure out how it works and how to rebuild it. lol

By the way where could I get a complete carb rebuild kit for this truck?

So if you are serious about doing this swap you will need to accommodate for the following issues. You will need to modify the oil pan, oil pump, motor mounts, Radiator, bellhousing, transmission, transmission mounts, drive shafts, clutch, fuel lines, exhaust, electrical tach, speedo, and differential gears. I am guessing I missed a few, but as you can see it is quite entailed. If you have your heart set on it, go for it, but I think it will be cheaper to go with a used 4d56.

Please do not be offended but it gets tiring when some do not read the postings. I said this was an idea and a potential option depending on what was needed and other options and knowledge on the difficulties and weather it would even work. I also said I would likely just get the 2.3L Mitsubishi Diesel if I can find one and just work on it and get it ready for install when my 2.6L bites the dust.

You probably missed it in my postings and that's ok. Just wanted you to understand the entire idea behind this thread. There is no having my heart set on this 2.0L motor but my heart is set on going with a diesel when the 2.6l pukes out. I will likely take the easiest option and install the 2.3L. I think the 2.0L will be underpowered anyway.

Some folks have put them in other trucks that are not MM but as we know each vehicle is different and some motors go into other bands easier than others. This is why I asked

Get yourself a 4d55 or 4d56, and go to town. Bolt in swap vs uber complex fwd to rwd conversion. I personally think a 4bt conversion would be awesome in a raider. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />