The truck has such minimal rust that the tailgate is the original and not rusted out.

To me that's amazing for any 25 year olf truck. lol

Sometimes you can get the hub to disengage by swerving side to side while going in reverse. I have never had this method fail me yet.

Sweet...I will try it. I will try anything to avoid tearing it apart right now.

I'm not one to get between you and FE, but I must say...he is a smart guy.

I'm not a fan of impact guns on those offensive hex bolts. After parting out so many Monteros with auto hubs, I've had best luck with a long-handled ratchet wrench and 8mm allen socket. The two times I used my 1/2" air gun, the bolts either came out or split the head. Subsequent experience with a steady torque application have been best for me. I have soaked the bolts with PB Blaster, or nothing when I was in a hurry.

Lastly, I don't reuse these bolts. I prefer to use new Metric grade 10 bolts and copper anti-sieze for exhaust. You may also consider using studs, instead of bolts, like the Toyota applications.

Chill. We'll get you through the issues your Mitsu has. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I am sure he is a smart guy and like I said I appreciate his advice. I just didn't realize that asking others what they thought would offend anyone. I was surprised.

I am going to PB blast them several times and put a small amount of heat to them. I will take your advice and use a ratchet instead. I will also just replace them with better grade fasteners.

I'm going to try this one more time. Use Russell's method with a breaker bar and allen socket, and use half dexron and half acetone as a penetrant. Put the bolt under torque short of the breaking point, and smack the knuckle of the breaker bar with a hard face hammer several sharp blows, increasing the torque minutely each time. You want the force of the blow to be translated straight into the fastener to shock it loose.

You just might break the hub loose with the same penetrant mix squirted inside with the cap off if it's just gummed up.

You might find it useful to report when you've tried a suggested fix and it doesn't work. It keeps you from looking like a whiner who doesn't want to tackle the hard and dirty fixes. I don't mind you questioning my suggestions. I'm as capable of casual idiocy as you are. It's not like I never made a mistake. What I found annoying is you asking the same question 4-5 times, especially when it was about something you could see for yourself in the manual diagram. I'll tell you right now, question everything I tell you, but be polite about it, and I'll be the same. Be rude, and you can do without my answers. I only help folks I like...

pb blaster is good stuff, but this mix ^^ puts it to shame. i use it when working on components of dissimilar metals that have been soaking in salt water. the only thing better is a cutting torch.

"I'm going to try this one more time."

Sorry sir but you have never told me that method before like that or even close to that to the best of my recollection if that's what you mean?. Please refer to your PM for the 1 recommendation you did give on this issue. Maybe a detailed explanation you gave others is in the archives but I do not remember you ever telling "me" that.

I have had a hard time looking though the archives for exact recommendations on certain issue from other members in the past thus far. Like I said I am a newbie. I try to find past solutions so people do not need to repeat. Unfortunately the archives can be difficult unless wording in the search query are just right. I have found some things and never needed to bring them up though.

Eddy I think maybe your mixing up the threads I have with the brief 2 private messages we had on 2 different issues. The reason I did not report that I tried your specific method when I 1st started this thread was because it didn't even occur to me to do so. It was done by way of PM and it unfortunately did not work so the thought never crossed my mind to post every thing I have tried. I assumed people would assume that I tried the basics. I also did not think you would get irritated at me for asking this question to others by being topic specific rather than my briefly mentioning of it in my transfer case thread.

You 1st stated above that "The method I already gave you is the only one I know of..." Like I said that left it open in my mind that maybe just maybe someone else might have a nugget that could get it disengaged. I had no idea that if your recommendations do not work that nothing else will. Like I said I am new so I do not know your knowledge. I am sure I will learn how your opinion is likely the only way something will work on these trucks moving forward. That's awesome and fine with me but again I am new.


" It keeps you from looking like a whiner who doesn't want to tackle the hard and dirty fixes."

I have stated I do not have a problem with tearing it down but I was really hoping for a back yard trick that could disengage it so I could get by "for a few weeks" until this horrible frostbite weather and ice clears. Once the weather breaks and my driveway ice that's 2 inches thick melts I can get that POC Ford Mustang out of the garage and get the truck inside to work on it. The Mustang will not drive on the ice at all. To much power even at idle. lol Unfortunately its also a tight squeeze to round the corner to get out of the garage into the main driveway due to a trailer that's snowed in that I put there before we had record snow fall that refuse to melt. Instead of melting more and more gets added. lol.... So much for global warming... I am stuck for a short time until the 2.5 feet of snow we have along with the 4 feet I have piled around the driveway and trailer clears a little. I cannot and will not tear it apart in the snow of my driveway.

Just to be clear and it will be the last time I say it.... I greatly appreciate your advice and value your opinion very much but I absolutely will ask what others think as well so I have a wide variety of opinion. I have not asked the same thing 4 or 5 times. Until I get to know you and others and certain members knowledge you will just have to bear with me a bit. Its hard for me to take just 1 persons PM recommendations I do not know and just stop there after the recommendation did not work. Its in my nature to try and get as much opinion and knowledge as possible when all other options have failed. Especially when I am stuck with a problem that needs a temporary rube Goldberg fix

I hope this has not damaged your decision on posting in a thread I have because like I said I value any input you have.. I just get a little pissy when someone is pissy toward me.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

And once you have used the torch ...As you know that if you spray anything on the hot metal it burns off and does not penetrate...Try taking candle wax to the hot metal it will act as a penetrant and not burn off...

Caution - It's been 10 years since I worked on any auto hubs.

Somewhere back in the cobwebs of my mind, I seem to remember something about a tab on the auto hub needing to line up with the slot on the spindle. IIRC when this is not done the hub may not function correctly. When the auto hub comes off, check the position of the tab. If it is mis-aligned, a removal, clean, lube and correct assembly may get everything fixed.

Check the bolt head and socket size on any replacement bolts. I believe the auto hub body is doesn't leave much room for a replacement bolt and socket.