For all this talk of alignment and geometry of steering parts, it really comes down to carefully examining things and figuring stuff out. The last time I took my '95 in for an alignment, the tech (I've used them for 10+ years) said I was off on the toe setting by 1/8" and I had set it in my driveway by eye.

First, I'd be concerned if my center/drag link was not running a nice perpendicular line straight across the frame angles from Pitman to idler, as has been mentioned before. If the Gen 2 Pitman fits, I'd sure use one.

Check your camber with a big level. You can get it pretty darn close to a starting point of zero that way.

Center the wheel and start looking down each side of the truck from the front to the rear, referencing the rear tires. Adjust the tie rod adjuster sleeve so that they line up as close as you can get to the rears, but also make sure the adjuster sleeve is pretty well centered between the two tie rods as a starting point (if it's closer to one tie rod than the other, I'd suggest starting there by taking the adjuster off and re-threading the tie rods in evenly). Also try to get the adjusters in approximately the same position on both sides. You can not only get a centered wheel, but you can usually get the toe-in/out pretty darn close just by eye. There are more exact ways with string, etc, but I've never used them.

Before even spending time at an alignment shop be sure you have held up your end of the responsibilities by checking wheel bearing play (jack up front, grab wheel at top and bottom and try to rock it back and forth). Adjust/tighten/repack/replace if necessary. I replaced the wheel bearings and races in my '95 for about $40 plus the cost of a race and seal install tool kit from Harbor Freight.

Have a helper move the wheel slightly while you examine the steering gear for worn parts. When checking the wheel bearings per above, also be looking for any play in the ball joints and upper and lower control arms' bushings. Get grease into every fitting and remember that typically, you can get more grease into the ball joints if the front is in the air.

Every piece works together in the front end and the end result is only as good as the weakest link. New ball joints and steering components won't make much difference if you have a lower control arm with a shot bushing, for example.

Then take it in for an alignment, watch them work on it (my guys let you into the pit with them and don't charge anything if they want you to replace stuff first) and ask questions/be critical in a polite way. I pay $60 for an alignment, but typically, they aren't shimming because I can get that pretty close myself. Once done, don't adjust your torsion bars, that you have to do at home, too, and measure, let settle and measure again with those.

Then take a ride over to your friendly tire store and get those wheels/tires balanced. It all makes a world of difference.

John B.