Screw it. Move to Florida, no emissions.

Haha. It's almost like Arizona, just slightly different flavors of Spanish, government corruption, and full retard politics. Oh, and humidity. And hurricanes. On second thought, I think I'll get my truck fixed and keep telling the wife about awesome Canada.

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Spent a little more quality time with Rocinante yesterday afternoon.

+ Cleaned up vacuum lines a bit. Found a couple that were relatively loose on the barbs. Decided to get anal retentive about things. Snipped old, loose ends off, added little RTV to seal up capped barbs (presumably for the no longer there jet valves), re-routed to maybe look a little better.

+ Cleaned up the Church of the FSM that was the electrical wiring on the driver's fender. Cleaned up grounds, grouped and taped slack. Looks much better. Also cleaned contacts for temp sensors. Discovered the engine coolant temp sensor - the 2-blade unit - is wonky. The plastic base with the blades on it wiggles independent of the metal base. New one inbound from Rock Auto.

+ Checked timing. Should be 7?BTDC?2?. Turns out I was somehow closer to 10?BTDC. Got that corrected.

+ Bypassed the leaky heater core. Ran the lower heater hose (typically connects to the driver side fitting) to the upper's location on the top of the manifold. Topped off and burped coolant.

Took it for a spin. Literally. Even with the 31s and LSD, I can spin the rears around corners, and I can even get a little wheelspin in a straight line. More power is generally a good thing. Once the CLT arrives, I'll probably bump timing another degree (still diesels when I shut it off), throw a bottle of alcohol in the tank, and re-test.

PROGRESS>

The fact that changing the O2 sensor helped quantifies it's necessity even on these goofy carb'd engines.

-Jon

Agreed. And considering Mitsubishi engine temp sensors tend to report HOTH when they die, I suspect my carb is going overboard with enrichment, reducing performance and killing the cat slowly. Hopefully resolved this week!

Run it at idle with the choke open, warmed up. Look for spots of fuel evaporating on the closed throttle plate. This will indicate a leaking needle vavle in the float chamber, overfilling the chamber and leaking into the carb throat. This could be the source of your dieseling, too. You also should spray some water into the carb throat while holding a very high idle, using a misting spray from a plastic pump spray bottle. This will clean off any carbon deposits in the combustion chambers which cause white hot glowing spots that power the dieseling...

ANd get a 190 tstat...

+1.

John B.

3.5 swap.

Dew it!

I have another engine. Just sayin

Give me a call if you need any help with the old trusty 4 banger. Ill give you a hand.

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Pretty sure I've got a 180? tstat in there now. 10? more going to make that much difference?

Will definitely check for the leaking needle valve and give it a spritz, see how it plays out. Rock Auto says the new CLT is inbound.



+2. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />



Saving up for the Delica swap next year, mate. I'll definitely give you a call if he still doesn't pass this week.

Appreciate all the help, guys!

Did some more work on Rocinante this weekend.

Replaced temp sensor, but temp gauge just will not rise more than maybe 1/8" above the cold mark. :shrug

Since my new alternator belt was squealing at startup, I decided to pull the AC compressor so I could get a bar on it for better tension. Decided to advance timing a little bit, too. Bumped from 7?BTDC to 5?BTDC since the FSM specifies a 2? allowance either way. Had no effect on temps, doesn't seem to have had any impact on the run-on/dieseling thing (which has improved slightly, though).

Pulled the air filter to check the choke and carb for condensation and such.

Cold startup, dirty. Oil coming from EGR?


Cleaned, cold.


Choke fully opens.


Secondary, cleaned.


Seems to be running better, though. Wants to break the tires loose out of every corner, can almost keep up with traffic. And I got over 120 miles out of the first half a tank, which is easily a 40% improvement in fuel economy thus far.

Thoughts?

Also, where is the reverse light switch? I crawled under to replace it, but couldn't find it with any confidence. There are 2 little sensor-like deals on the rear of the tcase (passenger side), one of which has a broken off wire on it, but the one which looks most like a switch is more on the rear of the trans(also broken wires) and none of the loose wires - yellow tape, bullet connectors? - seem to reach. :shrug