Hi everyone. Just wanted to post a quick introduction and tell everyone I how much I appreciate this site before I start asking questions.

My name is Joe. Just recently purchased a 1994 Montero SR making this my fourth Mitsubishi. Previous Mitsubishi's were a 1991 Montero LS, 1991 Diamante and a 2003 Evo 8.

A pic of the new Montero




170k on the odometer, timing belt within the last year and a smashed bumper that will be replaced with something like an ARB bumper. Interior was in good shape for being 20 years old, nothing missing. I had the drivers side seat repaired and replaced some burnt bulbs. "Fixed" the ignition switch by shaving it so it could be rotated further.

The engine is clean, no leaks besides slight weeping from passenger side valve cover gasket.

The previous owners kept up on services but I believe their mechanic cared more about money than the truck. Lots of hoses/harness routed in wrong places. Missing screws on things like the top engine shield and different brackets. Hose clamps over tightend, many bolts over torqued. Things that just irk me for some reason. Probably why I could never make money as a mechanic. Putting a set hour rate on a job never made sense to me.

So far I have replaced the plugs with iridium plugs, replaced the lower intake plenum and all gaskets, put on an OME suspension minus the coils(back-ordered) and just installed some 235/86r16's on 4runner steel rims.

Now comes the fun.(skip to the ******** if you want to just read my questions)

Timing belt was just recently, right?

Well, I found a pick n'pull in Tumwater, Wa that had 3 92-97 Monteros and with the directions pulled up on my phone's gps, I set off Saturday morning.

Luckily before I took the ferry off the island and only about 3 minutes from home, I had a sudden drop in rpm followed by what felt like a brand new engine running at its best performance. This happened to me before in my 91 Monty right when the fan pulley seized up and broke off . I instantly knew what was happening, looked in the rear view and saw the head of the crank bolt go bouncing off. I pulled over, popped the hood and grabbed the crank pulley that was conveniently resting against the radiator and on the swaybar. Turned around and went home, grabbed the wifes car and headed off again.

I picked up new crank bolt, washer and woodruff key at a Mitsubishi dealer that was close to the parts yard.

Sidenote: Tumwater Pick n' Pull has 3 2G Montero's (1 SR) and a 1G.

I should have known the crank bolt was loose/ on its way out. The AC belt was shredding itself on one side. I thought that was weird but replaced it with new with out a second thought. I figured the poorly placed radiator hose clamp was the culprit. And then there was the weird tick that wasn't lifters or anything top end. It would come and go and sometimes I wouldn't hear it for a couple of days.


I've torn down the whole front end of the engine to replace the timing belt due to the timing gear trying to walk off the crank snout. The crank position sensor blade kept it from coming completely off but wore down the crank position sensor so that has to be replaced. Besides the timing belt "dust" everything is new under the timing covers: waterpump, tensioner, idler. That is a big relief. Just need to drill out the broken crank bolt(probably over torqued or older version bolt). I've ordered a belt and a CPS and as soon as they come in I'll have it zipped up in no time.

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So here's a question:

I pulled the woodruff key off the crank and it looked like this: http://www.carid.com/1967-ford-mustang-e...CFclufgodslkAGQ

Its not as degreed as that one, maybe only 2 degrees maybe less than 2.

I'm guessing it was used to offset the timing change of heads being milled.

Does that sound right and should I reuse the key?

I've bought a new one from Mitsubishi that is just straight.

Also I didn't look at its orientation before I took it out so I'm not sure which way it should go back in. I tried to draw a mspaint picture to explain what I mean but I'm no artist:



The letters above the keys I drew are (A) on the left and (B) on the right.

Does anyone have any ideas?

I have many more questions but I'll start with these.

Nice to meet you all and hopefully I can become an asset to this community!!

Joe

Welcome to 4x4wire.

The crank key should be straight. Anything offset indicates metal fatigue and drift over time.

Toyota wheels?

Cheers,
Russell

Hey Joe,

Welcome back to the Montero fold. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I have a engine sitting in the garage with the camshaft exposed. Will snap a couple pics of the crank in the morning and post.

WI, Washington? Are you on Whidbey Island? If so, swing by next time heading south. I live by Boeing Field south of Seattle, and have two 94's sitting in the driveway.

Did any of the Monteros in the Tumwater JY have a good black hood, by chance?

~ Jon

Rxinhead: The crank key that came off the motor is an offset key. No metal fatigue, it was purpose built. I know that when you mill heads down it will change the camshaft/ crankshaft timing. I've heard of people using keys that are offset but only in extreme cases. I don't know if thats the case here. I have the OEM key so I'll most likely just use that when I reassemble.

The rims are early 2000 model Toyota 4runner spares.

Jdavis: Yes, I'm on Whidbey. I'll have to remember to stop by next time I leave the island.

I will have to get a picture of the key to show guys what I'm talking about. It's odd. Maybe the mechanic couldn't install the timing belt correctly and used the offset key to move the crank gear a couple of degrees to line up with the belt.


There was a 2g (95) SR that was a dark green metallic with tan interior that was mostly all there except the front headlights, grill, filler panel. I snagged that stuff.

A 2g (96) LS that I believe was black with tan interior. Most everything was there. The little slip they gave me said the color was black but it also said the 95 SR was black.

A 2g (93) RS white with grey cloth that was stripped.

They all had hoods, couldn't tell you the condition since I didn't pay much attention to the hoods. Might be worth a call to them though.


Also, I pulled off a set of KYB gas shocks when I got the OME stuff. I would really hate to throw them away since they seem to be in pretty decent condition. If anybody wants them, cover the shipping and they are yours.

If the roll pin on the crankshaft gear (the one the timing belt rides on)has sheared off, replace that gear and consider replacing the pulley too. You want fresh mounting surfaces and the correct clearance if the pulley spun at all on the face of the the gear. Also the gear has a slight step to it, if that is worn off, replace it.

Good luck extracting that bolt. Its a PITA.

LH drillbits and a LH tap and a LH thread bolt to fit the tap. Start small and drill (STRAIGHT!) into the center of the bolt stub, increasing drill size until you get to the tap drill size, and tap the hole. Do not drill all the way thru the bolt. Soak the bolt stub with a good penetrant. I like half acetone and half dexron. Let it soak in, and dose it again with penetrant, then thread in the LH bolt and put it under tension short of stripping the threads/head flats, and whack the LH bolt head with a hammer while torquing. A box end 6pt wrench is your friend here. Sharp blows with a steel hammer is best, to shock the threads loose, or an impact hammer works, too.

Change the front seal while you are in there...

I've seen keys hammered into your shape by a loose pulley, and I've seen timing correction keys, too, made like your illustration, but I've never seen them for a Mitsu. Might be some, just never seen them.

The max milling on a mitsu head means if they needed a correction key, the head is overmilled, I think. I'd call a good machine shop and ask. Their catalogs should list the part if it exists...

Thanks for the replies, guys.

I drilled out the roll pin today at work, perks of being a machinist. The only damage to anything was the broken roll pin. I drilled out the crank gear/ pulley to accept a 7/32 roll pin, I think originally the are a 5mm pin. Easier to find a 7/32 pin than 5mm. The mating surfaces are still good.

LH drill bits are the way to go. I've seen too many broken easy-outs in the molding/ extruding business. Easy outs expand the broken bolt out, when what you really need to be doing is getting as much pressure off the threads as possible.


The key way on the crank is pristine, the key way on the crank gear is perfect and the key seems brand new besides the red rusty dust. I'm at a loss as why it has a timing correction key.

I'll get some pics tonight. Trying to get the lawn mowed before I lose the light.

Here some pics:

Crank Key



Fixed Roll Pin




Thankfully no damage to the crank gear





Edit: Season 20 of Top Gear is out on Netflix if any of you missed that.

Well, got everything back together without any problems. Just need to re-install the radiator and plug everything back in.

I tried to get some new trans cooling hose from Autozone yesterday. Nothing that matched the OEM hoses. The hose I picked up yesterday was 3/8 ID 10bar transmission line. I can get it started but it seems to tight to go over the barbs on the radiator/ trans cooler. Does anyone know what hose size I need. Might try NAPA to see if they possibly have metric size line? Something like a 10mm ID hose?

Everything is running great...almost.

When I accelerate, the truck seems like it lags then accelerates then lags then accelerates but just slightly. Also, sometimes when cruising and I let off the gas it drops instantly to idle speed, like just drops off. Doesn't stall or die. (TPS?)

I'm getting a check engine light for EGR solenoid, Throttle Position and the Air Flow Meter. It only happens on the drive home from work, not in the morning. I have about a twenty minute drive and its usually about 5 minutes into it. I replaced the EGR solenoid with another one from the junkyard, no difference. I can see the EGR valve opening when I blip the throttle. I've cleaned the EGR valve also. I'm sure that the EGR passages are all clean.

I'm going to try the FSM troubleshooting tonight to narrow it down some more. I'm worried that the harness that goes to all of those sensors might be fouled. All three sensors/switches use that same harness.

Anyone have any ideas where to start? I've cleaned the AFM and the throttle body. I'll start doing electrical test tonight.