Thanks for the replies, guys.

I drilled out the roll pin today at work, perks of being a machinist. The only damage to anything was the broken roll pin. I drilled out the crank gear/ pulley to accept a 7/32 roll pin, I think originally the are a 5mm pin. Easier to find a 7/32 pin than 5mm. The mating surfaces are still good.

LH drill bits are the way to go. I've seen too many broken easy-outs in the molding/ extruding business. Easy outs expand the broken bolt out, when what you really need to be doing is getting as much pressure off the threads as possible.


The key way on the crank is pristine, the key way on the crank gear is perfect and the key seems brand new besides the red rusty dust. I'm at a loss as why it has a timing correction key.

I'll get some pics tonight. Trying to get the lawn mowed before I lose the light.