So I've checked all the parts places, dealerships, and online sites, but I absolutely cannot find a new OD Relay for my '89 Raider. Using car-part.com hasn't been fruitful since the ones near me that actually have a raider or Montero either no longer have the vehicle or part, or they never return my phone calls.

I NEED this relay. What are my options?

If it's the same as an 89 Montero tell me where it's located on the vehicle and I will grab one for you.

Step back two steps. The relays rarely fail. What dies is the a/t temp switch on the water neck or the switch on the shifter or it's wiring, and somewhat less rarely than the relay, the o/d valve on the tranny.

The temp switch passed the test (ground test recommended throighout the forums) and the switch on the shifter appears to work as the dash shows OD OFF when switched off and goes blank when the PD selector is ON. Is there a better way to test the shifted button?

Sort of. Test to see if you have 12v at the connector to the a/t temp switch with the o/d switch and ign on. This tests the relay and switch relay circuit (different than the light circuit), leaving the o/d solenoid valve as the cuplrit.

Ok so the temp switch may be the culprit, but herein lies another issue. The replacement part comes up as a TS5552 from Echlin through NAPA, but it has two prongs, not one. Can I still use it and just use one prong? If so, which? The dealership doesn't have any they can order.

The a/t temp switch is the single connector pointing forward from the water neck, opposite the ecu temp sensor, which is the two wire, connectors in a tee, sensor. The a/t temp switch is very small in diameter. You can't use the two wire one, as it's a thermistor, NOT a switch. They are selling you the wrong part. The right one may well be dealer only.

I thought it passed the teat before? If you ground the single wire, it should enable the o/d shifter on/off switch.

Another test for the switch is to check continuity cold and at something like 90*C, continuity between connector and lower metal switch body. Rubber band the test leads to the connector and body, and immerse in boiling water. The swtich should close (0 ohms, or real close) as the switch heats up in the boiling water.

EDIT:
Found ya one here...

I tested it before but I didn't trust that I had the correct results since open/closed at the shifter switch threw me off, since off is on/on is off. Went back to retest and snapped the prong. It was very dirty and most likely original which, I'm guessing, is why it snapped so damn easy.

Thank you for the link! Everywhere else I search has the wrong part or can't get the right one.

After I submitted the order I got worried a little. The picture looks like the switch that sits on top of the therm block, behind the thermostat and to the drivers side. I already replaced that one mistakenly, having been given the wrong part number at work. Here is a comparison of the busted A/T switch I need and the brand new coolant temp switch (I think?) that was already replaced and doesn't fit in that ATS hole.

What are the electrical habits of each? Appearance does not always match.