I just found my build sheet from 10 years ago. My ACL slap may be from the machine shop setting the clearance to the high side.

Fasteddy.... never knew about the hone grit. I always thought it was one size fits all... and used the cheapest hf one. Oops. I agree with you on ring life. Its not like moly will only last a year. Its more like 100k vs 200k on chrome. I can't think of too many people who keep a car for 100k or a motor for that long before swapping.

Kevin. I used Randy's Hastings rings. I used ITM piston from rock auto. My pistons were fine to re use, I was just converting my 88 n/a block to run a turbo setup. I didn't need a rebuild, just a piston/ring swap to lower compression.

Airsailor... I would mess with head work like that. Starion guys do it when they plan to boost to high numbers like 20psi and shoot for 350hp. To a stock setup you won't gain anything significant but will sacrifice reliability.

Kevin... I agree that the balance shafts are nice, but even randy reports difficulty with them. He changed the bearing on his own 2.6 back in the early days and it seized. Very precise work to get that in right. My bearings were all hashed up so I opted for the elimination kit for idiot proof reasons. It vibrates more, but the ups bod trucks I service are literally 4 times worst.
Not arguing, but are you sure Randy's rings arnt moly? Like everyone in the starion world says so and I even recall randy saying so over the phone. Plus when I got his rings they were black while my old rings and the ones that came free with my pistons were shiny and chrome. (Can it be possible hastings makes them for him, cause I know companys like wiseco will make you anything if you pay the price or buy enough, and he surely buys enough)
I agree with you about the roller rockers, but I've gotten flamed over on SQC by a lot of people who swear by them???
I think I have that style piston because my motor only makes 120compression. Stock for a turbo is 140 and I think 180n/a. I'm not worried as some guys run high mileage beaters with worn motors making 95compression. Plus I didn't deck anything so if I did that would bring it up to 140. Downside is the more you deck the block or head, the more out of time the timing chain becomes and only solution is an adjustable cam gear for $200.

You sir, are a plethora of knowledge. Mucho gracias.
I'm going to eliminate the balance shaft. Mostly because I'm poor and can't afford to rebuild it or replace the engine if it fails.
I don't have a lot of faith in the limited
Machinists in my area.
Keeping it stock OEM is good to hear. My wallet also appreciates the news.
My only other question is, where I'm gonna use the BSE. Is it definitely worth it to have everything balanced?

The BS's have nothing to do with rotating engine balance in the usual sense. I4's have an inherent second order shaking force no matter how they are balanced. This force causes the engine to rock fore and aft, and is caused by the slight offset of the piston pin in the piston which reduces the piston wall-piston friction on the power stroke, and makes the piston accel and decel at different rates on the upstroke and downstroke, this imparting differing forces on the block. The upper limit for an I4 is about 2000cc's without the shafts before you get unacceptable shaking. You can balance the rotating/reciprocating parts to within a millionth of a gram, and it will still shake.

My horror stories on bse's. I had to weld up the ps pump bracket a bunch of times when it fractured due to the vibration. This happened both n/a and turbo. My a/c compressor bracket turned into metal gravel, and since it was pot metal, I had to swap compressors and brackets to the cast iron version. I finally put the bs's back in, and no further problems. The rv mirror is so buzzy at cruise, you couldn't tell if there was something behind you or not unless you put a hand on it to damp the vibe.

Unless there is damage to the bearings, I hardly ever changed them out. I just put on a new chain and sprockets and guides and called it good. I never had a bs bearing failure. I do like a lot of oil pressure, and used to shim the oil pressure relief valve spring with a flat washer to increase the tension, and thus the oil pressure. It's under the big hex nut at the top of the oil pump, pointing to the dside. Others scoff at this mod, but I've done it for years, and it's good for 10-15pai of hot oil pressure.

I realize I'm in the minority in this opinion, but there's a damn good reason for the shafts, and while I may be wrong, I'm still certain I'm not. Porsche thought enough of the technology to pay Mitsu royalties to use it on the 924-944, and Porsche engineers are not stupid...

Glad eddy beat me to this one since a good portion of my info on balance shafts comes from his writing.

I read your horror stories when building my motor and was going to keep the shafts out of fear but then decided to check the bearings and was left with no choice but a bsek. I feel a bit of a buzz at idle and highway cruising, and a bit of shake just off idle at 1100 ish rpm. Otherwise its fine for a truck. I'm not sure why your motor was that bad.

On SQC almost everyone insists on balancing the motor when eliminating the balance shafts, even Randy. I don't know why.

Off topic, but I worked at an indie German auto shop for a bit... and I have along of doubt in the credibility of some of those engineers. (Especially whoever designed the motors that spec 15w50 in hopes of maintaining engine life. Some people roll in new bearings every 30k just to keep them going). I do see your point though.

Rotating/reciprocating balancing is still important for smoothness and engine longevity, it just won't help the shaking from the basic design. The starquest boys are pretty good, but not perfect. The balance shafts won't affect basic engine balance, or correct for errors in it. We are talking about two different things here.

What do guys think of this kit? Worth it or is it better to source each part. Again this isnt anything I want to spend a bazillion dollars on, the 4.3 conversion tapped me out. Any cons with it was this kit? Add to it? Take away

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121065364703?lpid=82

I'd be tempted to piece it out. Most of the time, my old cam was fine, and I hate to change one unless I change out the rockers, too, like new lifters on a new cam in a small block chebby. Most of the time, when the cam is bad, it's the bearings, which means you need a new head or some serious repair work on yours.

ACL pistons are not much more expensive than some noname brand. You want quality rings, moly or chrome. I always liked trimetal bearings, but the new aluminum bearings are now better. I like known names here, too, Vandervell or Sealed Power or the like. I like the FelPro 2.6 turbo gasket set for good parts and relative economy. Buy a set of single use locking exh mani nuts from the dealer.

Regarding cam? You sure it includes one? From what I know, no new cams are available, just regrinds. Like eddy said, stick to what you got, especially since you said you have a fairly new head. I personally wouldn't use a regrinds unless I wanted something like a 274 type performance cam for a high boost starquest.

I agree with eddy... piece it out. Like you can end up with Bette components for less money if you shop around right. What eddy and I are describing is an engine build using premium and oem components for a motor that will provide years of perfect service. But to me it sounds like you just want to build this engine for the f of it. So why waste money when you can grab a DNJ kit for cheap. Its prob not great, but how bad can it be. Most commercial builders like jasper use it and many machine shops. Don't exactly hear of those engines blowing up, so it can't be all bad stuff, but I doubt any of those buyers actually keep the car/motor for a full lifespan. In this country people change cars every few years.

By if you want good stuff, here is a combination of parts I used and parts I'd use if I was doing a full rebuild on a n/a motor that I wanted to daily drive for a while.

I used ITM pistons for my turbo motor because I didn't can about compression decreases because its a turbo. In your case I'd try to reuse your original ones if possible. I bought the DNJ gasket set for like $50 cause its hard to mess up rubber and paper gaskets. Then paired with a Felpro 8770 or 9116 head gasket, cause its a gasket that counts. I also got a felpro rear main cause I'm paranoid. Got a cloyes timing set and bsek kit because they are the oem for mistu. (Plus some cheap ones are too long or short and mess with timing) I also bought a beck arnley chain tensioner for $2 rock auto closeout. Its an oem mitsu that comes with a sheet not a dorky o ring. I got sealed power rod bearings for $3 closeout and $17 clevite closeouts. Randy's moly rings were like $50. While your paying for shipping from him, like eddy said, get the oem exhaust studs.

Very quick math right there adds up to 250$ and up to $400 if you get p istons and all.

Awesome info thanks.
I'm rebuilding it for the experience and the hell of it. Engine guts aren't really my forte.
I'm reading mixed reviews on head bolts.
ARPs or OEM?
Roger that on the manifold bolts.
Really appreciate it guys.