Hello there, First off I would like to say what amazing forum this is! What a great resource! I have read through the thread on how to properly search for specific topics and still could not find the answer I was looking for, I have been trolling on this sight for quite some time and have seen several threads somewhat related to my issue but ended up never getting a definitive answer, I'm having some issues and hope that with everyones help I can get this figured out and leave this as a guide to actually fixing the problem. If after reading this its, any of you know right off the bat what the fix is I apologize for getting into such detail about this, it just seems as though every time I think I found the thread i was looking for it is always a little bit different from what is happening with my truck. Maybe I just didn't read deep enough into old threads? Anyway here it goes . . .


Im running out of ideas as to why I cannot get my raider to run anymore, its really sad.

Vehicle-
1989 Dodge Raider
3.0 V6 5speed
167,000k
Roseburg, Oregon

Heres a summary of whats going on and what I have done to try and solve the issue.
Last week i drove the raider about 12 miles and it just turned off on me, it didn't sputter run rough or anything before hand everything just shut off, I barely even noticed it, I just looked down and there was no RPMS!

A friend helped me tow it home and thats when I began to try and track down the issue to no avail. first I replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. Unfortunately this did not solve the issue, next i spent some time and replaced the battery ground wire as the original one looked like it was on its last leg. still nothing. I replaced the fuel pump as well. Im getting spark, fuel and air. But maybe not the right amount of air or the right idle speed?

After doing some reading here on the forum I came to the conclusion I should try and replace the throttle position sensor next, I disconnected the battery and proceeded, I also replaced the IAC (idle air control) I think thats whats its called. After this I cranked the motor over a few times and got it to respond it started! So I went to test it out by driving it up and down the road for about 20 minutes about the amount of time I drove it when it died. I noticed though that the idle was higher than normal at about 1100 rpms when it usually is at around 800 it also did not seem as peppy as it usually was either. When I pulled back into my driveway I let it idle for a few minutes and sure enough it stalled out and wouldn't start again. It will start for about 2 seconds and stall. This is where I currently stand.

Am I missing something? Could the timing be thrown off? It wouldn't have ran at all before it died again if it was timing, right? I pulled the computer out and checked the capacitors and nothing is leaking and everything looks really good. I have read through pages and pages of posts here on the wire and some have had similar issues but I never can find a definitive answer to what solved their issue, have you heard of this before? Have you experienced anything like this?

I certainly don't want to sell this truck, i love driving it so I want to try everything before I throw in the towel. Im just frustrated at this point.

I just would like some ideas as to where I should go with this next

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this over!

Update: I saw in another post that someone unplugged their IAC and was able to set the idle manually, so I unplugged the IAC and the raider fired up and seemed as though it was running a lot better, but I need to figure out how to set the idle speed( the thread did not explain how to do this), with the IAC unplugged will the idle still lower on its own as it warms up or will it just be set at a static idle speed without that Idle valve? I guess i will look into the fsm for setting the idle speed or will that even be in the fsm?

welcome to the forum. Great o see another MT on here. Don't sell it,,,folks on here will elp you solve the problem.
That'spretty low miles ,,,,unless i was abused you very heavy duty MT isn't even broken in yet.
.
!st thing to check out are the wires at the coil pack. Tere's 2 electronic filters on there and they comonly get cracks in the wires. My be cause of suden death and intermitant runing and not running withot obviuos cause.
I had coosion insie th main relay(under the kickboard on passenger side. Popped the cover off it nd had gen corrosion n one of the 2 electromagnet contacts i there. This doesn't sem to be a comon problem, I don't had the kickboard so snow and water may have damaged mine easily.
None of the above explain fast idle.
Tereare 2ile controls,,the electric ICS and a hot water controlled air valve thats not shown in the FSM. They can corrode inside washing out the expanding wax pellet that controls it. This will give you a contstant high idle.
Broken wires at ICS terminal...
TPSthat's not adjusted properly,,,holding the butterflyopen just a hair too muck.
I'll lets so of the real gurus on here o help,,,my laptop battery is giving me the dead warnning.
Again , Welcome
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Thank you for the response! I was able to start the raider this morning with the IAC (the sensor valve facing the battery, not sure the exact name for it) unplugged, it was idling at about 2,000 rpm and wouldn't lower once warmed up, I have never had it idle high like that before it had always idles high warmed up and then it would drop down once warmed up. After about a mile of driving it died. Im going to remove my throttle body and check all the ports on it to see if anything stands out, I have just been waiting for the heat of the day to pass before going out there. Thanks again!

Mine was/is doing something just like yours. Digging around I found out the Ignition Controller Module connector may be the culprit.

If you'll notice in the bottom of the picture, the connector is covered in silicone. Had mine out in the back yard waiting for it to die so I could check some electrical things, when I grabbed the wires off this connector. It started to die. I found with raising and lowering the connector, I could get the engine to die, then restart before it quit revolving. A little bit of detective work shows that the connector is available as a replacement part. Less than $15, hopefully that will solve the issue for me. Might give that a shot.

...and visited Montero Ranch before signing up here...

Very true a peace if info "I" have been trying to get the forum to understand for sometime now ... And the TPS plug to will bite the big one and die to and keep a Mitsu from running ... The ICM plug is on most EFI Mitsu;s in a junkyard if you need a new one ... The one thing all Mitsu's need a "wiring tune up" the one thing no one seem to want to do .... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />... Strange ....

Thanks for the idea, I did replace that little black box power unit, but maybe it is the connector, ill mess around with that next, but the thing is after it just died and I replaced the coil, wires, rotor, cap it now starts and idles high at 2000 rpms and then stalls out, then it will start for a few seconds and then die again, I think I fixed the spark issue now I think its a throttle body issue. Im going to dig around some more tomorrow. Thanks for the input!

Yep and probably won't be the last time I visit the ranch. As long as you have cars there at least . . . thanks again!

I have a FSM for the 89 Powertrain Diagnostics. Might be something in it that can help...?