Wondering with the anti-freeze that you might need of those Haz-toys "wiring tune-ups" and possible corrosion from the anti-freeze.

I'm going to replace the alternator tomorrow. The dash voltage only reads 8 at best. I'm thinking the fuel pump isn't gets enough juice...

It feels like a fuel problem above all...

I'll let you know tmrw!

Well, alternator has been replaced. There has been some changes but the problem still persists.

First Observation:
When I replaced the alternator it seemed the idle was much better. I slowly cranked up the RPM's at idle with no problems... then suddenly BANG! - The loudest exhaust backfire I've heard in a while... I even heard some rustling in the exhaust after that. It was as loud as a 12guage. That was yesterday.

The truck actually starts right up every time now with a new battery and Alternator. On a cold start and drive the truck runs. IT DOES NOT ACCELERATE at all, just slowly creeps up in speed with the throttle all the way down. It doesn't stall when cold. The RPM's will slowly increase as speed increases. The exhaust still gurgles and pops a bit. The engine is running quiet and smooth under the hood.

When it is WARM, it starts right up. It revs at idle. Reverse is fine. When I engage in drive and press the throttle it usually just drops RPM's and stalls. If I barely touch the throttle it will be able to grab some RPM's (like just enough o accelerate a bit 1000-1500) but not for long... then it will stall. after that it gets hard to start and when it does I can usually put it in drive and creep home without touching the gas...

I am not sure what to test first. As I said, this all occurred after a stall on the freeway. Total loss of power. At the time there was a coolant leak (upper hose) that just occurred, it was low on gas and apparently the battery was TOTALLY dead. yep, all three at one time.

Any ideas on where to begin from easiest to hardest... or better yet, smartest first? I feel there is an air/fuel problem. Does the fact that it starts and runs without stalling after it is cold indicate either too much fuel/air? I am avoiding the fact that the head might be bad... because I dont want to face that fact...

Thanks!
Matt

It sounds like the timing belt has jumped a tooth and the cam timing is off. I'm not too familiar with the 3.0 but I think you can pull off the upper timing covers and verify the cam gear marks while the crank is at TDC. If it jumped timing then a new belt and tensioner are probably on your short list of things to do.

Hmmm... if it WAS a slipped timing belt wouldn't the problem remain consistent when running either hot or cold?

I say skipped T belt. After installing a new belt(and I hadin't developed my cardboard install tool) it drove along fine on the flat nieghborhood streets,,,then I came to a slight grade and it felt like somebody was sticking a sock down the intakes throat.

Thanks guys... I think you are right.

I don't think this is a job I want to take on just yet. Do you have any suggestion for a shop in the valley?

THX
Matt

Fischer Automotive, 1309 E Buckeye, Phoenix, 85034. 602-275-2888. Guy that owns it is a gear head and an old school drag racer. Place looks like a kind of a dump but they do good work and are reasonable.

Otherwise, I'd think about getting it to a dealer.

John B.

When you had the coolant leak was it spraying all over the engine onto the distributor? You could have taken out the distributor if you soaked it in coolant. Or just by chance it went south at the same time. I've also had major power loss when I had a bad alternator. Did you ever look at the wire that was glowing red hot. Might have melted some wiring. I would look into that stuff a bit further.

HAHA yes I know Pa Jero, thanks. and thank you Johnny

There were three things that happened simultaneously... Crazy I know.

I honestly don't think it overheated to the point of a head warp. There wasn't any smoke... it didn't feel like a war...

The battery was totally dead when I got it home. The alternator must have been working overtime for a while. When I got the new battery the alternator didnt even show a boost when Volt tested via the battery. Thats when I saw the red wire. I didn't even mess with it, I just went to the store and got a new one and popped it in.

after thinking about the problem and combing through the previous owners records, I would assume the timing belt must have skipped on stall. Ruled out the Dist cap because I pulled each wire and it was snapping away. no one wire had any effect on the overall sh**ty massive misfire occurring. Previous owner has replaced The O2 sensor, fuel pump, IAC, Had the throttle bottle cleaned, replaced jets... a ton has been done in less than 4k miles.

With the hot ass weather, complexity of the problem at hand and overall time constraint, I took her in to a buddies shop. He is going to have a look. He knows whats up, he used to have an SR.

Hopefully in no time she will be back on the road and I can focus in on getting a bigger set of tires on her... haha.

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