Well today I helped a friend bring home Lloyd's old '90 SWB (you know the one) we're going to get it back into shape and back out on the trail. Pretty excited about this one, I think it's going to a good home. I'll get some pictures up soon.

pic

pic 2

pic 3

pic 4

Any parts donation needed at this point?

NICE!! Looking forward to the updates as this progresses. How's his new rig doing?

Btw, nice looking vw vans in the back also. Are they 2wd or synchros?

Wow, glad to see it back from the dead. Here is what I remember for a long time ago.

Must fix, reasons I gave up:

1. Engine is completely rebuilt top to bottom but overheats to the point its un-usable and has 40% less power. No smoke, no noise, ect, ect. My guess is the Clearwater heads on sale were boared too large.
2. Transfer case output leaks like mad, an issue I could never resolve even with custom bushing. Needs a slip yoke eliminator set up.
3. Seat belt work
4. Idler Arm, upgraded unit in truck ready for install
5. Right side CV WILL NEVER stay in. Tried new clips, no dice.

Honestly a lot of other Components are really in good condition. Just got tired of the huge gremlins. Good luck!

1. Easy fix, the 3.0 SOHC is super easy
2. ditch the ridiculously long valley springs in the rear return drive shaft angle to near stock
3. Junk Yard
4.Gen 2 Idler from autoclone, free lifetime replace
5. Remove stub axle and bearing from tube, Re-install with sleeve retaining locktight between axle tube and bearing race. Worked for my 89.

1. Easy fix, the 3.0 SOHC is super easy( but expensive, likely need to replace heads)
2. ditch the ridiculously long valley springs in the rear return drive shaft angle to near stock(has Gen II springs, the valley springs always collapsed) Could lower it, but then you loose the great clearance.
3. Junk Yard. (No way, this stuff is getting way too old. Some sort of aftermarket package I would think.)
4.Gen 2 Idler from autoclone, free lifetime replace. (They fail constantly with 35's, I have a brass bushing custom one in the back seat to try out.)
5. Remove stub axle and bearing from tube, Re-install with sleeve retaining locktight between axle tube and bearing race. Worked for my 89. (Interesting, not sure how that all works but it definitely needs it.)

If you can source some used seatbelts from an area of the country that doesn't get hammered with UV like we do here in the Southwest, they should be in decent condition and safe to use.

Finding something aftermarket that will fit and work like stock is going to be difficult - plenty of race harnesses out there and even some generic-fit retractable units, but none will fit/work like stock.

Custom Az Crew Gen 1 Idlers are pretty good, haven't had one crap out yet.

+1

Edward

be sure to bring a Gen II tester out with you for the engine swap. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />