Believe the key barrel on the Montero is going south. Sometimes can not get truck to start with out a little key love action - have to use just the right motion to get her to go...

This happened on my last Montero. I replaced the ignition switch with no success. Eventually pulled the ignition switch and left hanging. When I need to start the truck would use a screw driver to manually turn switch and start engine. It worked but was not pretty.

Don't want to spend the money to replace barrel. So thinking of rigging up a "Start Button" to bypass key. Would still use key to unlock wheel and turn on power.

Has anyone rigged up something like this? any ideas?

Thanks,
~ Jon

Seems crazy to put in all that work to replace something that worked fine for so long.

Are the tumblers broken? Key won't turn in the barrel?
or
Key turns but starter does not engage?

If it is the latter then you may want to read this thread.
Twitchy ignition revisited - 1989 V6

You need to run + to one pole on the switch or button and have the small wire going to the starter on the other pole. Its a black wire with a yellow stripe on a gen 1 not sure what it is on yours. Can be found easily in the FSM or using a multimeter.
I would worry about the on and off key switch positions failing and don't recommend bypassing the start position as a permanent fix.

Mudraider - Not recreating the wheel but do like the cool factor of having a push button start <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Jay - I read your Twitchy Ignition thread the other night. It's what led me to post today.

I'm fairly certain it's not a twitchy ignition since their isn't a click when key turned to start. Basically I turn the key to start and nothing happens but turn to start with some upward pressure at the right moment and engine starts. Or turn key and jiggle and the engine will start.

I did a push button start on Saab I had. I was pretty. The wiring was similar to this diagram


Probably less than 30 bucks for parts then just have track down the correct wires to splice into.

My Raider did not have the twitchy syndrome, but it did have some significant voltage drops. 28 years is a long time and connections exposed to heat, vibration and moisture can degrade.

Testing:

To load up the electrical I turned on the headlights, driving lights, directionals, rear defroster and any other loads that would be on when the ignition switch is in the run position.

To keep from killing the battery while testing I hooked up my charger. That way I didn't need to run the engine ( I was in a closed shop!!).

Then I took a volt meter and checked the voltage from the engine block to the negative terminal of the battery. I saw a few tenths of a volt.

To find the bad connection, I then measured across each connection ( from the wire to the lug and then from the lug to where it was fastened to).

Basicly, if you can measure a voltage drop directly across a connection, its bad. Especially on the main battery cables that are designed to handle starting current that are only running accessories during the test.

The connector to the body had about a .08 volt drop. At the engine I found a .05 volt drop.

I did the same thing on the positive side cleaning and or replacing or repairing any connections that had a voltage drop.

I made the same measurements under the dash.

There will always be some drops on long runs of wire that have high ampacities. What you want to find is resistance at terminals and switch contacts. I verified that my ignition switch was not a problem.

The end result was the dash board voltmeter now reads about 1.5 volts higher and my directionals now blink a lot faster.

The main culprits were the chassis ground and a connector under the steering column.

Things to note: The headlights don't run through the ignition switch so you don't need them on to test it ( ignition switch).

Head lights and driving lights are good to have on when testing the main battery cables. Unplugging and replugging a spade terminals under the dash may be enough to re-establish a good connection.

Check the connections and the condition of your fusible links.

Great information Kevin! The lights on the truck are sort of dim - there could be a ground or corrosion issue.

Thanks,
~ Jon

Could be the starter. Mine would just click recently when it was real cold out (less them 10*F), I could jump the starter to get it moving then start it with the key. Was a strange hard to pin-point problem. Every time it sat in the cold for a few hours would have the same problem. I eventually took out the starter and disassembled it. Found one of the six brushes was not being pushed in by its spring. Haven't had a problem sense.

Most likely a problem with the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or clutch switch if manual and starter selinoid if your not hearing any clicking when you try to start it.

Well today it would not start and noticed the dashlights looked dim.

Popped the hood, removed and reattached battery connections and it started right up.

I might have a little egg on my face <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Still want to do a push button start though..... after going through the wiring

~ Jon

On the 88 we found that it had 7" - 8" of corrosion under the insulation. Replaced the cable, my son says it no longer has any issues with starting. When I had the motor out, I unbolted all the grounds and wire wheeled them with a drill, because it seems like the [censored] vehicles have always been touchy about grounds.