I've never checked fuel pressure with a gauge, but I did remove the fuel rail and put clear plastic over all of the injectors. They all sprayed, and to my eye at least seemed like a good amount of fuel.

Hadn't thought of pulling the cover off the ecu and checking it out. Will try that and see if it gets me anywhere, thanks.

Just watched your video. If you had the top end apart, then your missing something simple...

Your timing belt is off (the marks can be deceiving, check and rotate the engine by hand 1 full rotation and see if they line back up??)

The bottom crank sensor is wonky, didn't get plugged in.

3rd.. Your plug wires! this is the most common!! Again, if you have NO CODES, no engine light... then it's probably none of the above.... and it's your coils/wire combination.

That video is short but it seems almost like no fuel. I don't see the motor bucking or trying to start like a mis-fire which seems like a crank sensor or timing belt issue.

What happens if you spray some starting fluid into the intake while someone is cranking?

Does it startup for a bit??

On my 3.5-SR... I had it apart 3 times..

1st time it sucked the bolt from the variable vane intake bullshit system into the heads.. Needed a head job (and I had the same problem as you.. IT WAS TIMING!!! damn belt! (120k miles)

2nd time.. Oil leak on the front seal! new everything up front.. no start like your but it was bucking.. sparkplugs/ coils were all mis-arranged. (190k miles)

3rd time. Got a valve seal leak and put ALL NEW top end stuff at like 260k miles. Injectors were plugged in wrong. That was fun!

Sold him (Lucky) after going all EV...

Point is.. it's usually something stupid and simple.

Keep it up with the videos!

Hey monte, thanks for the response! I know youÆre right, its gotta be something simple.

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Your timing belt is off (the marks can be deceiving, check and rotate the engine by hand 1 full rotation and see if they line back up??)
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I keep checking and re-checking these. Ill post up some pictures. The marks look dead on to me. Even after lots of turning over (by hand or starter), they seem like they havenÆt budged an inch.

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The bottom crank sensor is wonky, didn't get plugged in.
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This was one of the last things I tried, I got a new sensor and plugged it in, made sure it was on correct and the paddle wheel thing was passing thru it.

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3rd.. Your plug wires! this is the most common!! Again, if you have NO CODES, no engine light... then it's probably none of the above.... and it's your coils/wire combination.
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I also did try this, because my brain keeps coming back to this is the source of my problem. 2 things keep bothering me about it though. In my original post I noted that I had it running, took off the upper intake, then found a bad injector wire, put everything back and that's when it stopped firing right. I didnÆt change the spark plug wires at all in between then. The other thing is, the wires are just the perfect length so that they only reach the correct cylinder. I would have had to try really hard to get them to go to the wrong place. And finally, I did buy new, longer wires, just as a sanity check and no combination of swapping them across cylinders had any effect on how the engine fires.

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What happens if you spray some starting fluid into the intake while someone is cranking?
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IÆve tried starter fluid down the intake, it has 0 effect.

[color:"blue"]
On my 3.5-SR... I had it apart 3 times..

1st time it sucked the bolt from the variable vane intake bullshit system into the heads.. Needed a head job (and I had the same problem as you.. IT WAS TIMING!!! damn belt! (120k miles)
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I took a good hard look at these things while I had the upper intake off. I probably should just rip them out so I never have to deal with them. Maybe I still will.
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Point is.. it's usually something stupid and simple.
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Thanks again for the input, hopefully if I just keep banging on it, IÆll figure it out (and probably feel really stupid when I do find out what it is)

Did you take the cover off the ECU and look for fried chips, caps, traces, etc?

Haven't tried it yet. Hoping I can find some free time tonight. Will post an update once I get into it.

Took the ecu out tonight. Pulled the cover off, and everything looks fine to me. Took some time carefully looking at all the components and didn't see anything obvious. I know old capacitors can tend to leak, but mine seemed ok, are there other common failure points I should be checking? Hopefully you guys can see this image of the board(sorry if its massive). [img]https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/s...d6OrUQmEGSYKlqha?ref_=cd_share_link_copy[/img]

How about that spark module that sits on top? mine died out once and I needed to go junking to find another.

If you can spray starting fluid in the intake while someone is cranking over the engine and you've got NOTHING... then...

1. Check the compression.. AKA timing belt can be wacky.

2. Spark plug firing is wacked.

You don't need gas to start when starting fluid is sprayed in but if you get nuttin... then it's compression, spark or valve timing..

Simple as that.

Let us know! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

(p.s. this is why I drive only EV's now) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I don't see any obvious problems with your ECU either. I had three bad ones on Gen 1s and they all were bad in different spots. You can look up how to test the ECU for a response plugged in to the truck with the FSM. I'm not sure if you have OBD1 or 2 on your 95. Moving forward from the ECU compression and spark/firing order should be checked as monte said. Your compression would be low if your timing is off. Some testers are available as loaners from parts stores if you don't have and don't want to buy them

95 SR's sucked because they were ODB1 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> Had to check with dashboard light code sequence.

Very late model 95's (considered 96 & up) were ODB2.

Keep us in the loop!

My plan right now is to try to do a compression test. I do have a tester, I'll just need to rip the top end apart again to do it.

I also did replace the ignition module on the top of the engine, I've been switching between the old part and the new part with all of my tests.

Probably just need to retrace all of my steps and make sure all the basics are still working (fuel, spark, compression) and then put everything back together slowly and methodically.

Hell, maybe I should take it to a mechanic if its still not running after that.

I really like this rig, I'm anxious to have it running.

Also, mine is OBD1, I know this because I bought a code reader and plugged it in, and it couldn't connect.