Being that the FE3 engine is set up with dual coils on the plugs and no distributor-type setup, I think you'll be looking at something like this...

12V ECU Tachometer Output
If you have a modern ignition system and your ECU (computer) has a dedicated 12V tachometer signal output you can use this to drive the tachometer. Use the SIG 1 (In-Dash Tach) or purple wire (Pedestal Mount Tach) input (see "Signal Hookup" in the instructions).

NOTE: Some ECU outputs are 5V which will not drive the tachometer. If you have a 5V Tachometer signal you can:

Contact us to special order a tachometer that will work with the 5V ECU signal.
Install a Tach Driver (see "Coil Pack or Individual Coils" below).

Here's the link to the FAQs page I pulled that info from:

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/faqs/detail.cfm?id=29

I didn't look at other mfgs' tachs. But I suspect others do something similar because everything is going solid state/ECU driven. So it's all becoming a matter of finding the correct wire out of the ECU and tapping into that signal. Makes me laugh because I grew up around motor heads and old school hop ups to squeeze more HP out of the engine. Now you just "chip it" to sup things up. I think it takes all the fun out of tweeking engines. Ah, but I digress...

Hope that helps <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


1997 Sportage 4x4, auto-trans, Warn manual hubs, 4" UPYOURKIA front lift, TJ 106AA rear springs, 2-5/8" body lift, 31x10.50 treads, SmittyBilt SRC front and XRC rear bumper, swing-out tire mount, OBX LSD front diff, Track Finder rear locker, 5.38 R&Ps and... really crappy gas mileage! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />