double check in between the cubbies under the middle row seat, i've found them wedged behind the middle section and in the corners before.

I think I have 3 or 4 of the lug keys. I'll look around today and let you know.

You're going to need a tool to unscrew and retorque the retaining ring on the hub as well - most people pick up a GM tool and grind off 4 of the 6 points so it fits the Mitsu hub. I'm guessing most of the AZ guys have one you could borrow since most any work on the front end requires it. You're welcome to borrow mine if you'd like.

I have a "raw" one and a bench grinder. Just haven't ground off the four extra points yet. My other one walked away. Or maybe it's between the rear seats or something.

John B.

I went in there and looked nice and deep like with a flashlight and didn't find anything other than a factory bottle jack.

Thanks that would be awesome. its like 10 buck a pop to pay to have them removed.

Awwe, the dreaded locking nuts of the late 80's and early 90's almost as bad an idea as the radio alarm code <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Would you believe the new 4 runners have those idiotic things?

I fixed the crank threads using the Time-Sert kit

I was going to try to drill out the locking lug nuts and use the big EZ-out I bought for the crank bolt but those lugs nuts are really hard to drill

I also took the lower plenum with the butterfly valves to a shop the other day to have some bushings made for it. the first shop said they wouldn't touch it because its automotive and if they did it would be $1000 and the second shop said $400. I couldn't believe it. how could it take that long to turn 5 slip fit bushings. I could do it in less than a hour and its been years since i have run a lathe.

so I'm just going to use some nylon bushings that are really close to the correct size for a temporary fix instead of leaving the assembly out.
then when I have more money I will replace it with the newer unit.

Should work fine. Use Loc-Tite on the screws, of course.

As I'm sure you remember, that o-ring I gave you goes on the back of the back half of the water pump and seals the metal water tube.

If you need any O-rings to try to seal the front of the butterfly shaft where it exits the front of the lower plenum, I have a metric kit or you can get a whole set from Harbor Freight.

Good work with the Time Sert. I'm really impressed with their product. It has saved a few of us on here so far.

John B.

I just received all my parts from oemmitsubishiparts.com

they sold me the upper engine gasket kit and it came with valve guide seals and then they also sold me a extra set because they didn't think that it came with any so I have the follwing

24 each of the MD306079

12 each of the MD306079 (grey intake)
12 each of the MD30734 (green exhaust)

so what ones should I use?

the ones that came with the kit or are they just going to fail after 60k miles

or should i use the MD306079 ones I payed extra for? are these the better ones?

I would like to return 24 of them because it was $122.64 for parts i already payed for in the upper engine kit.

they also had me buy 4 camshaft oil seals when the kit comes with 4 but the ones in the kit are black and different design slightly from the brown ones i paid extra for.

MD177097 black ones
MD152603 brown ones

Im kinda upset about this order because they also had me buy exhaust manifold gaskets that came in the kit and some O rings.

I paid about 200 bucks for gaskets I already bought and i could have used that money for a updated plenum.

oh and they forgot the thermostat so i will have to use a aftermarket one because I'm not going to wait for the OEM one.