Finishing up my balance chain/timing chain replacement and am at the point where I need to reinstall the oil pan. I loosened the axle mounts enough for the diff to pivot and give me plenty of room to maneuver the pan in place.
When I removed the pan it appeared to only have a Permatex or RTV type gasket maker (no actual gasket) in place. I have a Felpro oil pan gasket and also have some Permatex Ultra Black. Do I use both, or just the Permatex? If both, should I apply the Permatex to the pan, place the gasket on top, and install. Should I also put a bead of Permatex on the block where the pan mounts.
Did not have any leaks prior to removing the pan and since it's a pain to remove/install want to install it the best way to avoid future leaks.
Thanks

Wow, nobody replied? That's weird.

If it's still off, here is what I would do: Make sure the pan surface is flat by using a straight edge. If any of the bolt holes are uneven, meaning they are high points on the sealing surface, flatten them gently with a hammer backed with a wood block. Clean the he!! out of both sealing surfaces. Use acetone as your last step. Use permatex sparingly on both metal surfaces and put the gasket in between. Do NOT overtighten the bolts. I'd use a t-handle to make the pan contact the block and set the bolts to 'less than just barely tight,' wait an hour or two, then torque them to spec, which is very low.

Hope that helps.

John B.

Appreciate the response. After 80 views was beginning to wonder if I'd get any feedback but figured eventually one of the "regulars" would respond. Pan is still off. I've been waiting on a second set of hands to help line up and hold the pan. Seems too ackward for one person.
One additional question; after applying the Permatex to each surface, do you find it better to apply the gasket to the block or to the pan? I'm worried about keeping everything lined up so that the bolts will go in easily.
I can't stress how valuable this forum and its experienced members are to someone like me who is not afraid to tackle most mechanical issues, but certainly needs guidance and a good reference.
Thanks

My post earlier this year is obviously not the same engine, but you may find this useful.

Oil pan on my 3.0L

Most gaskets have a few of the bolt holes slightly smaller than the others - this is so you can run a couple of bolts through the pan and gasket to keep them aligned as you install them.

Whanging the bolt holes back flat, or a tad further, is very important. I used a couple of pieces of 2x lumber under the flanges, and used a 3/8" extension, the slightly rounded end that goes in the socket, and a ball pein to un cone the area around the bolt hole.

Where do you suppose I learned it from!?

John B.

Oh, don't use a gasket. There is not a factory gasket for that, the stupid aftermarket ones never line up and the oil pan always ends up getting deformed then in 5-10 years you'll need to remove it for some reason and it'll disform the pan more leading to more future possible leaks. Use a good oil resistant RTV like black or go to the dealer and buy their super happy fun best sealer and never worry about it again.

Like JBFP said make the pan flat and keep it flat.

If you use RTV, do not overuse it. I once bought a Honda Passport that had a rebuilt engine in it. Oil pressure was low, so I pulled the sump pan off. The oil pickup screen was clogged with strings of silicone seal that was gobbed on at pan install, then the pan was bolted tight. The silicone that squeezed out dried and eventually broke off along the edge of the block and pan, clogging the screen. I ended up replacing the bearings in that one. I prefer gaskets with a very thin coating of sealer and extra at the corners. Much easier to get right when laying on your back trying to snake a pan back on.