yes that is correct, in my case my Behemoth doubler did not quite give the right seal, the shaft could have been a tad longer. But you may not have this problem anyway, just letting you know it might be a problem, cheers

UPDATE:

Thanks, Ian. I see what you're talking about now. I'll keep an eye on this. I still haven't decided on what crawl box I'm going to run. Still thinking Duffy's, but ....



Edward

I've never read anything on anyone doing an ABS delete on a Montero or Montero Sport and nothing showed up on search, so ....

My '99 Limited has ABS. Oh, whoopee. I've already had one run-in with ABS off road on my '03. That was one time too many.

Anyway, I'm still planning on the Dynatrac axles for the build. So, even if I was planning on keeping ABS I'd still need the axles built with tone rings and sensors that'll work with the Mitsu ABS. I have no idea if that's even possible - I'm pretty sure I don't want to know.

I went through the 3G/GT/EVO forums - looks like replacement of the ABS proportioning valve with the regular non-ABS valve, and non-ABS hard lines under the hood. That coincides with what I saw under the hood and in the FSMs. Pull the ABS pump system/controller, replace the lines and valve and that's it on the mechanical side.

On the electrical side, I'm not so sure. Has anyone been through this?

Another question that I couldn't even find a mention of is if ABS fault(s) shows up in OBD-II. I know it does in CAN in latter years, but .... The PCM does have a 'bus' line for ABS so I'm concerned that removing the ABS might trigger CEL and a code. That will not work for me as CO emissions testing changed their rules this year to FAIL if CEL is on or any code is present.

Anyone have any insight on this?

Edward

This is what I did, with all new lines. Then I stripped the harness of every abs wire and component(freed up a few circuits), including the wire that powers the trouble light on the cluster.

My scanner says no codes are present, although I've not had my Sport in a testing lane, yet.

Thanks, Danny! That's good to hear. I know the GT/Eclipse stuff is very close to the '90s Montero and Montero Sport stuff but there are differences so you never know for sure.

I may talk to the tech and see if he's up to pulling the pump and replacing the valve and lines. Now that they've moved the Mitsu guys to Hyundai there might not be as much leeway in what they're allowed to do. I don't have nearly as much free time as I did when the big Sport was done.

I'm glad they have a separate ABS indicator. Some have suggested pulling the CEL but they check EVERYTHING here now. Sigh.

Edward

Danny, where did you finally end up mounting the resistors and heat sink?

Edward

Was one of those temporary spots that may become permanent.

Lol! Thanks, Danny. I knew you'd said you were going to relocate it so I wanted to check. I have a couple of these myself.

BTW, I got a flex plate and that crank plate on the way. Those two pieces are getting HARD to find. Cheap at the dealership but the crank plate isn't in the US.

Edward

The existing plan is still to run the PSC TCU with the '97 Mitsu AW4 I got a couple weeks back along with the Transgo 340-HD2 shift improver kit. I picked up the adapter housing and the Jeep output shaft. Transmission shop says this is all goodness.

I want a compact dual t-case shifter setup that will fit within the existing area on the stock console. Exactly like the JK Advance Adapters Rubi-Crawler setup pictured below. I couldn't do this before because of the limited space between the body and the transmission/adapter, transfer case and doubler. With a 2" body lift that's no longer an issue so I'll have the space to run the shift cables at the top of the tunnel instead of along the side as I did on my '97 Sport.



The kit below is expensive and I'll still have to make a few modifications but this is effectively the same shift assembly as the picture except without the Advance Adapters "42R650 : Jeep JK Twin Stick Shifter knobs". Its also EXACTLY what I wanted the first go-around.

303008L : JK ATLAS II SHIFTER (#303008L)

That pretty much takes care of the transmission, transfer case and crawl box/doubler except for how to shift the transmission. I think I have the A/T shifting figured out. I've been emailing Rory at Radesigns.

Previously mentioned in the thread was Radesigns' Rail II kit for manual shift of the AW4. It doesn't replace the stock shifter - that is still required for P, R, N and D. Its a slick design but brings me up to four shifters in the cab. I still can't figure out any way to mount the Rail II within easy reach on the trail that wouldn't be a PITA the rest of the time. AFAIKT, it doesn't matter because the existing stock shifter won't work with the AW4 or the PSC TCU.

So after much more surfing and reading I started looking at the Winters Shifter that Radesigns sells. When I originally looked at it weeks ago, I didn't understand exactly how it worked. Some surfing on Pirate and a couple emails to Rory fixed that.

Winters Shifter & Switch Kits - Radesigns Products LLC

What really got my attention were the following two images.





I really liked the gate modifications in the first pic but didn't particularly like the shift sequences. For some reason they don't make sense to me off road. The second pic made a lot more sense to me - like the Rail II - but didn't show the gate mods.

I emailed Rory to make sure what I was thinking was actually possible. This shifter will work with the PSC TCU in 'automatic' (or normal A/T operation), but it will also operate the AW4 in full manual mode - JUST like the Rail II with a factory shifter. Only one shifter is required to get both full auto and full manual modes.

I wasn't sure if he sold the configuration in the second picture so I asked and he said, yes. $500.
That's the shifter with the appropriate switch setup installed. He will also modify the gates to match the first picture.

I was fairly sure the Transgo shift kit wouldn't conflict with anything but I wanted to make sure. Rory said that no, it would be fine, and in fact he uses it with the exact same setup I'm talking about running. Good stuff to hear.

Tomorrow I'm going to look at the shifter dimensions. Based on my rough guesstimates, it should fit in the stock location pretty nicely. I plan to make a new console top plate out of something so I can get a nice finished look with the t-case shifters and Winters shifter.

Anyways, it was good to get confirmation from Rory that all this will work the way I need it to.

Edward