I'll take a look at the FSMs tonight. I want to see a breakdown of the front axle assembly but from what I remember ...

There are two brackets that bolt the differential housing to the sub-frame. What you need to do is figure out how much you need to rotate the housing to get the 2.3 degrees, pull the front differential assembly, take the brackets off, weld up the original bolt holes and then re-drill new holes in the appropriate locations. And you're not going to be able to do this with a hand drill. If the bracket setup is like the Sport with both housing brackets at the housing, you shouldn't need to build anything up. I think I remember some Montero's have the PS bracket at the end of the axle tube rather than at the housing. That one may need to be built up.

OR, you can look at shimming the brackets at the sub frame to get the rotation. Sometimes that's possible depending on how its mounted to the sub-frame.

So, yep, I have a pretty good idea. Its not as bad as it sounds, though. I think I'd rather do that then pull the t-case, doubler and transmission.



Yep, he does. But every time I mention his name here to drive shaft guys they roll their eyes. He had me 98% convinced to do the double Cardan setup you're talking about. When I talked to the local shop that usually does my drive shafts, they rolled their eyes and told me that was ridiculously over the top, expensive and unneeded. I told them the same thing you wrote because that's the impression I had. All they'd say is, yes, he does good work, but its usually ridiculously complicated and expensive.

I'd be maybe willing to doubt the shops here, but I've never had them be wrong and Tom right. And, I've read too many posts on Pirate that all echo the same thing.

I don't remember all the little details. I was addressing this 5-6 years ago. What I do remember is that the shop strongly disagreed with running a double cardan setup on the street at high speeds. That with two joints I would be MORE likely to have high speed vibration. It has to do with having two big floppy joints vs a u-joint and cardan. The u-joint/drive shaft alignment holds the Cardan in place, so to speak. That doesn't happen as well as with a double Cardan.

And there is also the fact that Cardan's wear and are expensive to rebuild. Something to think about.

I know what I'm talking about is a pain, but its cheaper in the long run and based on my experience, I know that won't cause vibrations. I can run my rear drive shaft with a Spicer Cardan and a 1310 up to 5K RPM at 85 MPH and its absolutely glass smooth. I have NEVER talked to anyone with a Jeep and the double setup that can do that. So, YMMV.

Edward