My gas tank developed leaks from rust on the top around the vapor hard lines. I patched it but it continued to rust/leak. Also, the sender is out of adjustment and the pickup tube is shorter than stock. I had removed the tank and made some repairs 2 years ago. The OE tank is not made anymore. I looked into other jeep tanks, but decided to go with a JAZ fuel cell since most of the fittings would end up being custom anyway. I got a 16gl used at a great price, but I mis-measured by 3/8 of an inch and it threw everything off. Also it would require a top fill and that made it hang down too low for my preference. I bought a brand new blank 12gl tank and all was good. (i'll add an aux tank or something later if need). I just finished it yesterday and it came out pretty well I think. I'll include pics & parts list, trying to give back to this fantastic forum. NOTE *I built a new rear half of the frame* so the 16gl tank may very well fit a stock Raider. I'll elaborate w/ the pics.

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basic info from memory:
fill hose = 2"
vent hose = 1/2"
supply hose = 5/16"
return hose = 1/4"
vapor hose = 1/4"
fuel cell = 12gl blank "drag race" tank (has a sump, got it by accident but all good: ran it backwards, gets extra 1/2gl plus... the sump! I may get more range than I did from the stock dented 15gl ???)
pickup tube, aluminum = 3/8"
straps and skid plate = 1/8" aluminum (salvage 3'x3' roadwork sign)

I did not connect the sender to the gauge yet. The sender is 0-90ohm, but I figured a couple resistor values to get it to match the Raider gauge 17-87ohm I think. (18ohm & 465ohm, see pic)

I did not bend/install the skidplate yet.

I ordered everything but the fill flange, small hoses, and aluminum tubing, from Summit Racing.

I ordered the fill flange from Speedway Motors:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2-Inch-Aluminum-Remote-Fuel-Cell-Filler-Neck-Flange-Assembly,3474.html?sku=91676550&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&catargetid=530009170000094087&cadevice=c&gclid=CLu2-9DFkckCFUMWHwodVP4ObQ

I got the tubing locally at NAPA. (1/4 fuel, 5/16 fuel, 1/2 fuel, 1/4 vapor/vacuum)

The sender, 1 fitting, and the aluminum 3/8 tubing, came with the used 16gl tank but it's all available from Summit.

I really scavenged to find all the correct fittings, washers, nuts etc so I'll try to post actual part numbers and all. Some are not searchable with Summit's 'refine search' parameters. Low cost was a high priority so I think it's the most cost effective options. Also, all these fittings are still valid for any size/shape tank. I don't have the emails anymore so I'll take pics of the actual shipping receipts tomorrow. I'm really just having fun documenting it all. There is no reason or oder to the pictures. And I'm not sure why they showed up as links instead of pics.

Other random notes:
The fuel filter 'sock' is actually, by chance, an OE replacement for this vehicle.
The pickup tube ended up being 3/8 because it's more common and it was easier to find a fitting that adapted 3/8 tube to 5/16 hose than to add a second adapter in the hose. The pump has no problem priming the 3/8 tube.
Most of the fittings did not come with the accompanying washers, nuts, flare nut, etc.
It was cheaper to buy a 37-degree -AN flare tool than it was to have somebody make two flares for me.
The fuel sock is supposed to have some kind of fastener but I just put a slight flare on the end of the pickup tube and forced it into the sock female. it felt like a good seal and it primed right up.
a Rotozip bit in a cordless drill cut the sender and fill holes very well. I saved the cut-outs for filler material in case I need to do any plastic welding.
I leak tested the tank with a garden sprayer tank and plumbing leak test 'soap bubbles' spray. I had 2 leaks: first was at the top of the fill tube (wasn't pushed on far enough/clamp was crooked) The second was at the top *bolt* of the fill flange. I added a touch of Seal-All and re-installed that bolt.
I re-used 2 of the 4 separators from the stock tank. I followed basic rules for vapor lines: tapped the tank as high as possible, all lines run down-hill towards the tank, ran a long run before the separators to reduce the amount of fuel that may slosh toward the separator, separators are higher than the top of the tank. I ran fuel line to the first separator and vapor line between them and to the vapor check valve.
The sender is a floating arm style. I had to run it towards a corner to fit it in the smaller 12gl tank. I had to run a seperate ground wire from one of the sender's mounting screws so the sender/gauge circuit would complete.
There is more ground clearance than ever and there is ample room to run my 2.5" exhaust essentially straight out the back. (only curve will be to go over the axle.)
The skidplate/outer shell is made from an old aluminum constuction sign. I'll bend it into a box shape, then maybe have the corners TIG welded. Or I'll buy the right gas and try to run aluminum wire through my MIG welder.
Yes, the body is terribly rusted in the back. I'll address that next, but I wanted to stop leaking/smelling gasoline first. Also it was soooo nice to be able to top off the tank for the first time in about a year. Can't wait to check the mpg!

oh, and I just bought a 2002 Kia Sportage for a daily driver. I'm already looking into lifting it

Leave the beater (Kia) alone and concentrate on the wheeler. Great pics, thanks for taking the time.

Thank you so much for including so much information. My tank started breaking fittings off and I don't suspect my ghetto fixes will last much longer. How's it working out for you so far?