Alright, I have an 89 SWB and it won't start. It was allegedly overheated (someone else broke it, so the only information I have about the breakdown is secondhand) but everything seems to be *structurally* intact with the motor and head gaskets (we haven't had the chance to do a compression check yet, but there are no other signs of a head gasket break)

Anyway, here is what I know and what my friend and I have observed, any input would be welcomed.

The engine spins.
There is spark (NOW, the middle of the distributor cap was totally fried, so this may have contributed to the initial failure)
The tach reads 0 RPM when the starter spins.
The fuel pump doesn't prime, but does pump fuel when the starter spins.
The car sat for a year(ish)

The only three things we can think of are either
1. bad fuel
2. bad fuel pump
3. crank angle sensor (read about this online, that the tach should read ~250 RPM when turning key, and if it isn't, that means the crank angle sensor is bad, which would cause it not to start)


If you guys have any other ideas, let me know. As of now, the plan for next weekend is to replace the fuel pump and purge the old fuel from the system.

Input is also accepted in the form of information on what's needed to replace the mechanically timed 6g72 with the electronically timed 6g72 -OR- where to find a source of relatively inexpensive compatible 6g72s. :3

If you search on here, there is a complete test sequence for your dizzy. It has spark? It pumps fuel while cranking? No dizzy signal to tach.

First, I'd test the control relay, somewhere on the pass. side outer wall of the footwell. To find this, and see the wiring diagram and test methods, download the shop manual from mitsubishilinks.com. Look in the efi section and the electrical manual for component locations and harness layouts.

The control relay provides power to the ecu and fuel pump differently depending on whether you are cranking or ign in run. I suspect one of the two ways the fuel pump is powered is out in the relay. Some part of the relay is working, because the ecu and dizzy must be getting power from it for there to be spark.

Re the tach, the tach signal goes thru an "LC filter" which is two electronic doodads mounted under the coil bracket. The lc filter conditions the signal from the coil (-) terminal to make it more suitable for the tach innards. The wires to the doodad have insulation that cracks with age, and the wire flexes and breaks at the tach, so no tach signal = dead tach needle.

Add some acetone from Home Depot to the fuel to flush the lines/injectors. About a pint to start.

WHere in NC are you? I'm in NE GA.