Alternator is now re-assembled. Soldered in the new brushes. The old ones were pretty worn down so I'm not sure how long before failure would have occurred.

To solder the brushes in you need to determine how long to make the copper wire as it holds up the brush against the spring. I had no idea how much of the brush needed to extend below the brush holder. I ended up just using the wire length of the OEM build. That worked out well with enough brush extending to the slip ring with allowance to compress the spring and wire inside the holder and enough to extend the brush as it wears.

The rectifier wires soldered in easily as those same ears that prevented easy removal of the wires held the wires tight as I soldered. Again the 200 watt iron was necessary.

Torquing the shaft nut was tricky. It needs to be 70 - 80 ft/lbs but the only way to hold the rotor is with a vice - with care not to do damage, not a good design. Some alternators I've seen on YouTube use an allen key in the the shaft to hold it while the nut is torqued.

Installation of the rotor into the case was difficult as I could not figure why it went in part way easily but got stuck half way in and would not come out again. It's necessary to use a small wire or allen key to hold the brushes in the retracted position to allow bearing, slip ring and shaft installation. I finally just used a rubber mallet and the case screws to set the outer cover and rear shaft bearing home. Be sure the align the back and front case so mounting holes line up.

Alternator spins smooth so maybe tomorrow I will re-install it and see if I get charge power.

This has been a good learning experience and I think I will do another one as I have learned what to expect from this one.