Probly not, still getting ideas, but I'm thinking of starting with bumpers and sliders, then move on to internal cage and front clip. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Finally got around to getting the numbers for you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

The numbers are from the service manual for my '94 Montero.
Displacement is .59 cubic inches/rev. (so ~2.2gpm @1000rpm), and the relief valve for the 3.5 equipped trucks is set to a max of 1,309psi.

I'm not sure what size cylinder your kit has, but the difference in flow and pressure sounds reasonable. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Nathan, the assist cylinder is a 1-3/4" with 8" of throw(PSC recommended for a D44).


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Going to a hydro assist as well, I was originally looking into swapping the toyota gear but i just now remembered you used a Montero Gear. Was also going to use the tacoma TC pump because it looked like it would be really close to fitting my bracket. Now i may just buy the same setup as you, no need to reinvent anything.

Any tips or things i should know?

Just went through the whole thread again and i think the only I didn't cover was the mounting of the PSC 97+ xj pump. I cut some aluminum sleeves down to the length I needed and may have had to drill a new hole, but it did fit in the factory bracket without causing a headache, and the whole system has worked great since the original install. I've learned to keep the r's up while going slow through tight trails because at idle the steering wheel will move only so fast and sometimes I'd like it to move faster. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> holding ~1500rpm gives faster turns.

Another thing I did since this thread is to add a 45 and a 90 degree -6AN fitting, at the gear, to get a better angle on the hoses that run to the cylinder.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Another tip that I thought of. when you have everything hooked up and fluid in, you can leave one end of the ram disconnected and turn the steering wheel one direction(engine OFF), and if the ram moves the opposite way as the tie rod, then the hoses are correct. If the ram moves with the tie rod, while disconnected from it, when the steering wheel is turned, then switch the hoses on one end.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll make a new post once i get all the parts rounded up and start working on this. Andrew at Letzroll lives near me so he's been helping me out, talking me into more expensive things <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

He knows all about the expensive parts, I'm sure you've seen his rig. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, he talked me into aluminum links and steering, like he's running on his rigs. He said they are as strong as .50 wall DOM but when the bend they spring back and the DOM does not. Then there's the struts <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> I'm looking at ORI struts so that I won't need bump stops, limit straps, or sway bars.

How did I miss this tread back in 09? Nice work"

Toasty, keep us posted too