Hi all. I'm new to the forum and just purchased my first Montero which I'm really excited about. It's a 95, 3.0 SOHC. Just turned 100k, got it for $2500 and runs great.
The previous owner mentioned it did leak a little oil, so I immediately got to working on that. Turns out the oil cooler lines we leaking. Had a hydraulic shop make me some new ones using the existing fittings. Now it leaks a lot less, but still leaking.
Looks like it's the crankshaft oil seal. Previous owner stated he recently had the water pump replaced and timing belt. Since he didn't do the seals or pulleys, and did only half the job, I now have to tackle this myself.
I have downloaded the FSM. Read it several times, watch videos on YouTube, and read over these forums. The following video on YouTube I find to be very helpful even though it's not the same engine I have.
https://youtu.be/lkG396-0Y7EAlthough I'm not afraid to tackle this my self, never having done this before, I am concerned about bending the valves and ruining my new car.
My questions are as follows:
1. He states in the video that the passenger side cam is under spring tension. You can see when it snaps in the video as he rotates it. If I have brought the timing to TDC before removing the belt, will the cams stay at TDC when I remove the belt or will it snap out of TDC?
2. If it does snap out of TDC , would it crash with the cylinder head? If so, will it bend the valves, or does it require more force than just that spring tension to bend the valves such as starting & running the car off time?
3. Instead of allowing it to snap down, would it be best if I gentily lowered the cam myself manually so that it's not under the spring tension? Would that keep it from possibly bending the valves?
4. At one point, he mentions that if dealing with an engine that the timing has been moved off of TDC, that you can simply rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 4 teeth and then re-align the cams back to TDC. Would this work with my engine as well?
5. If the above step worked, wouldn't it be best if I simply did all of the work I needed to do with the cams slightly off TDC so that there's no spring tension threatening the movement of the cams, and then when I am ready to put the belt back on, simply brink the cams and crank back to TDC?
Any help from people with experience with this procedure is greatly appreciate. I'm so greatful to have found this forum.