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kia sportage not disengage 4H to 2H
#1103734
08/13/17 12:37 AM
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Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2
OP
Need a Spot
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Hello to all,
I am new on this forum, I know you are very much experienced owners of Kias that could help me.
I own a Kia Sportage 1997 runs OK in 4H mode, the problem occurs when I trying to come back to 2H because the hubs not disengage... they disengage after too many tries (some times trying for hours...), that seems to me an abnormal condition.
For these days I am changing the clutch and seized the oportunity to take a glance to the transfer to look for an anormal conditions that might cause the problem, but I saw nothing...
Any ideas why this is happening?
I would like to fix the problem and conserve the original system but want to examine my options and one of them seems to be switch the system to manual hubs...
What do you recomend me?
Thank you in advance!
Kia Sportage 1997 , 4" UPYOURKIA lift kit, rear TJ Wrangler 3227's, rear KYB 99 RAV4, 3.25" body lift, 265/75/16 tires, snorkel, 5.38 R&P, front/rear TF-Lockers. Working @: custom front/ rear bumpers, Superwinch Tiger Shark 9500 w/remote control.
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Re: kia sportage not disengage 4H to 2H
[Re: jckiasportage]
#1103801
09/01/17 10:41 AM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 387
Mudrunner
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Have you checked your front hubs. Pull them apart a d give them a good clean up and service.
Are they vacuum activated or mechanical?
If they are vaccum check for any leaks.
Easiest optio is to fit freewheeling hubs ? I think that will solve your issues. Factory hubs have been know n to be problematic.
3 options for free wheelin hubs
AVM Warn Mazda B2000 with a couple of small mods
Cheers, Chris
97 Sporty, snorkel, K&N filter,chipped, ext forks, 40mm Dob Springs, KYB struts, 35mm Jeep TJ Springs, RAV 4 OME shocks, Kaiser Locker 5.38 R&P's, 1&3/8 body lift, 245/75 R16 D674's Sports steering wheel, bullbar, extractors & 2 1/4 exhaust engineered.
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Re: kia sportage not disengage 4H to 2H
[Re: jckiasportage]
#1103972
11/07/17 12:11 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,221
Body Damage is Cool
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Check under the hood of the car on the side opposite of the battery for the vacuum actuator. It's by the break master cylinder. Look at the hoses for cracks and also check down at the front suspension out to the wheel hub for cracks in the hoses there. The internal hubs are a dual diaphragm design and do get contamination in them that will not allow them to seal to activate because there is not enough vacuum. They will also not deactivate if there is not enough pressure.
The best solution is to switch to the free wheeling hubs. They are much more reliable and are stronger too.
Logansportage
White 1998 4 door KIA Sportage 4x4 w/Eibach 2.5 spring lift and TJ rear coils, 4crawler 1.5 body lift, Monroe Sensa.trac shocks, Bosch 4+ plugs, Eaton LSD, 31x10.5x15 BFG KM tires, 2.5 cat back exhaust w/SpinTech muffler
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