I bought a harbor freight winch and winch plate, then cut the plate in such a way that the "L" shaped pieces cut off each end stand up vertically (and get welded on). I bolted the flat plate to the bottom of the frame at the factory winch mount holes, and I bolted the new 'uprights' to the inner sides of the frame at the factory weld-nuts there. those require half-inch spacers because the frame rails get narrow right there. I used some short pieces of pipe "temporarily" for several years and haven't had the need to put a flat piece of half-inch steel in there like I intended. I have used this setup to winch the Raider out stuck good a few times and some other trucks mildly stuck and a whole bunch of weird / fun utility stuff. A note about the old HF winch I got; they made their own solenoid switching assembly, it's pretty beefy with thick brass plates and contactors. It only uses two solenoids in a push/pull arrangement and that's how it can reverse. The whole switching can be rebuilt using only a small flat-blade screwdriver. I remotely mounted the solenoids under the hood so the winch would fit under the Raider body. I still had to trim the plastic winch clutch lever a tiny bit but I had no issues with that** I have a 2-inch body lift now, so there's plenty of room, but It fit before the body lift (barely**) with half-inch shims to lower the winch frame. (removed shims after body lift installed).

-almost forgot, I had to cut about 3/4 inch off the rear of the factory front tow hook to get my plate to fit. I used a sawsall patiently and it was super clean. sorry, no close up pic of that. maybe tomorrow in the light.

I'll attach a bunch of pics of it. Sorry they're at night with a flashlight, but I think they get the important info across.

PS this is an old thing, I just am getting back into my Raider and am catching up on some stuff I always meant to share.