Friend of mine is saying it's not a good idea to lock an independent front suspensioned truck, says the front trys to pull different directions and will bust CV axles or parts.
Yes a straight axle is stronger, yes locking any puts more stress on parts.

But even if the IFS flexes more why would that cause a CV axle to pop vs actual steering and suspension movements ?

Even though I want to do the bad and dirty way of locking with a welded diff (yes I am aware of all the drawbacks as I've had and drove a welded rig) he just means in any way locked. A LS is only recommended for the front unless you have done a lot of HD upgrades. I think he has been reading only the bad cases or people who are scared of them.

Yes I will end up welding both front and rear of mine, mine gets drove on the street but not daily or a lot,I know how to drive on the street with it, mines a LWB Montero with 31-10.5 ATs... no rock crawling or hard bashing, I simply want to Not have to gas it hard to go up a washout or a ditch on an angle, open or LS you need more momentum and gas. I also wheel in N Florida, more sand, mud and soft dirt, I tend to try and crawl over and though stuff vs give it the gas and hang on type of driving, but some sandy and muddy spot you just gotta gas it lol

What say you that been there done that and or knows the truth about this ?

my locker experience is with suzuki, but i found the front locker invaluable.
i used autolockers front and rear.
a cvjoint broke first time out, but i think it was just a fluke, 'cause i didn't break anymore after that.
broke the axle in the carrier once also, but that was me- doing some rock hopping on the dusy-ershim. still had 3wd. still got home.
i learned how hard to hit it.
i know nothing of how welded gears would work, but either way it would put more stress on things.

autolockers(&welded, i'm sure) don't make good daily drivers, but i don't tow.
worth it off pavement, i think, and the mitsus i've run with use 'em.

I've ran a welded front diff on 4 different Mitsubishi trucks. For traction in deep mud and water, it's awesome. Tight turns suck though when you have both MANUAL hubs locked. When the trail gets tight and you need to turn, I unlock a hub. And I've used Aisin, Superwinch and the cheapie Chinese ones. I have only broke once in that time do3n here in Florida, and that was at Hardrock Off-road Park in Ocala. I was going up a 60?? slope, doing 4k-5k rpms for a few minutes. I hit a spot where my 37" tires grabbed and ­ƒÆú­ƒÆÑ, bang, a cv exploded. Manual hubs are the key to a welded front diff. I'd never run it on the street. And if'n I Iived up North. I would only drive in the snow with 1 side locked.

TM is also going to replace (or have spare) Auto Hubs, so that he doesn't have to get out to lock up. We've discussed Aisin hubs already, and those are no go. For trail spares, I'm going to gather some of the fixed flanges to put in his tool box.

Frank...snow in FL? How common is that?

On the auto hubs. I've learned if you roll back down the hill make sure that they didn't disengage before jabbing the gas again. I will be mindful of this from now on.

...another reason you'll be paying only shipping for the auto hubs, my fine-feathered friend...

Thank you so much Russell.

Anyone know where I could possibly get a Aussie locker for the front ?
If we get another stimulus check I'm putting it all in the truck.

My opinion, since you live where you have no need to be in 4wd on hard ground such as pavement you should be fine with a welded diff.
Some people will say it will break, but then some people can break a crow bar in a sand box.
I would definitely use manual hubs.

Just dont die of heat stroke doing it man. 117* is mighty hot.