Just can't seem to find the problem is my problem, check the plugs and surrounding wires, voltage readings, but for sure an injector was cutting out, checked spark and it was fine, it's either the injector or electrical to the injector, I will be removing the TB, Plenum and replacing the front passenger side HVLA.. while it's in that state I'll replace the injectors, check all wires and lines.

Still getting code for fuel pump, replaced it and filter just recently.

But says crank angle sensor again also, I know the wiring could be bad but the previous owner did put 30 year old parts back on after replacing the engine.

None of this started till the deal with most of my ignition system and ECU took a dump on me.

Where on the front of the engine is the plug for the CAS ? What's the best way to check it, says nothing about it in this pos Hayne's manual.

I need to get an actual factory manual and go over as many wires as I can and check..

Wow, could just be the wiring or sensor itself, but after reading this, sounds alot like the problems I've been having.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-crankshaft-position-sensor

I have 5 out of 7 issues stated in that article.
I will check the wiring and connections but I've found alot of wired that are brown in color, none that's green with corrosion, just brown. I will clean the one for the CAS first and work from there.

I mean, mine has one right ? Every time I pull one up on ebay, amazon or any parts store website it says won't fit listed vehicle.

Yeah, no CAS or CPS on this model. It's very rudimentary. Have you checked the air gap in the dizzy? Have you verified one of the magnets has not cracked?

Best I can tell the distributor uses an optical pickup, not a magnetic. I pulled the other one apart to see if I could find what was wrong with it, couldn't see anything and turned it in as a core for a remanufactured factory unit, truck still get code .. so it has to be a wire, same for the fuel pump, still getting code for it and had just replaced it along with a new filter.

Does the voltage get reduced to the pump at times like idle or is it full time 12v ?
I'm thinking running my own ignition triggered relay directly to it, I mean it has the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

As for the distributor, I'll start looking and testing wires, but does the wires from the distributor go directly to the ECU ? That way I can color code them and check, bypass if needed.

Now if I can find the fuel pump relay I'd check it first. But the only photos I can find are for the Sport or newer models. I assume it's by the ECU/MPI relay or behind the glove box..
ECU/MPI relay checked out fine.

Where would the best place be to get an ignition on only hot wire to trigger a relay if I end up bypassing the factory setup ?

Thanks guys. I know I'm a pain, but it's hard to explain my problems and get answers that I need, been hoping it wasn't a wiring problem as that's not my strong point, but as many have stated it more and more looking that way.
I need OldColt here, he likes wires hahaha

Best I can see in wiring diagram fuel pump doesn't have a relay.
Wire tests coming soon.

Found out it was the wire from the O2 sensor plug up beside the transmission, and a bad coolant temp sensor.

Wire fixed the bad stumble but it ran awesome till it warmed up, ran like crap and engine bay was hot, new coolant temp sensor and it runs very nice now..