EDIT: changing topic name

Got my 10-bolt 5.38's back in the mail this week and a paycheck coming in friday. I want to get those suckers in there.

I'm poor and have more time than money so I'm planning to pull the 3rd member and take it to get the gears installed.

Here's the question. I know I need an install kit. Is one available? I went to the dealer today and they had no clue as to what I was talking about. If I have to buy the pieces separately, what do I need to buy?

Thanks in advance.
-chris

<small>[ June 10, 2003, 07:41 PM: Message edited by: rodeo_chris ]</small>

install kits consist of carrier shims, pinion depth shims, crush sleeve or pinion preload shims, new pinion nut, gear marking compound, new ring gear bolts, pinion seal. and depending on whether you get a master or a basic you can also get new pinion bearings and new carrier bearings with them as well.

That being said, i dunno where to pick one up. Have you talked to Jerry Lemond before? he'd be a good source for this i'm sure, email me offline and i can give you his contact info if you don't have it.

-Rob

<small>[ June 10, 2003, 03:13 PM: Message edited by: RobG ]</small>

As for a kit nope no one makes one, I sourced out the bearings for the rear but am still not sure if they are all going to work, but the dealer you are looking at about $200.00 and that is from St. Charles. There were a few post here with all the part numbers and as far as shims you are Out of luck big time there because they only sell them individually and you have to take it apart and try and see what size you need.For the fron try Napa I was looking at there page when I was sourcing out bearings and it looks like they offer most of the bearings but you will need the Crush sleeves and seals from Dealer. Good luck.

ERick

P.S. I haven't installed mine either but we are getting closer.

If you supply all of the parts to a vendor who then installs the gears for you, I will bet you sign a disclaimer that they are not responsible because you supplied all of the parts.

It is cheap insurance (and good vendor relations) to let you vendor buy the parts of their choice. They will be much more inclined to stand behind their work.

And, they already know where to get the parts.

And, if they get something that doesn't fit, they will replace it.

You will probably pay the same from them as you would pay from someone else. They will get to make a few dollars also.

Give them the phone number for St Charles Isuzu and have them source any Isuzu parts there. They will probably be cheaper than the local Isuzu place.

Another thing, if you pick your vendor and get a work order going (with a credit card) they may order the parts before you tear you rig apart. This would be less down time for you.

Steve

PS Have them give you a quote first!!

<small>[ June 10, 2003, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: lttlbddy ]</small>

With more of us getting ready to install the 5.38's how about creating a "section" so we can post to and read all the "trials and tribulations" of the installs?

I'm sure there will be more of us (read... me) asking the same questions as the time nears.

I found this question of the "install kit" to be useful. I was under the impression that all the installer had to do was go to xxxxx auto store and buy them.

There was a mention of a previous list of parts needed...? Are they OEM or a hodge-podge of items?

For those of us considering pulling the pumpkins ourselfs, what is the procedure (easiest/quickest/etc.) for the IFS front? The $$$ quote I got from the "gear shop" is quite a bit different for them vs me pulling it.

Thanks for listening

For those wondering why it cost more for a shop to pull the third member and do the install vs. you delivering the third member to them, I just pulled the front third member out last night, basically a 3 hour job. It will take me another 3 hours to put it back together. This IS with hand tools only.

A rear is probaby only 1 1/2 - 2 hours each way.

Steve G

<small>[ June 10, 2003, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: lttlbddy ]</small>

First off thanks for the replys guys and gals. Rob thanks for the info on Jerry, I'll contact him and see if he has any input.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by lttlbddy:
<strong>It is cheap insurance (and good vendor relations) to let your vendor buy the parts of their choice. They will be much more inclined to stand behind their work.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I know, but it wasn't possible in this case as far as the gears go. I'm waiting for the Isuzu dealer to let me know what they would charge just to do the install since they would have all the other parts they would need. No matter who I end up getting to install it, I'll wait until after I get it back to throw that lockright in. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="images/icons/grin.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by zuzusan:
<strong>The $$$ quote I got from the "gear shop" is quite a bit different for them vs me pulling it.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">The majority of the work is in removal of the 3rd member. Rear axle is slightly easier, but since I have the dana axle with no 3rd member I'll end up having to drive it to the shop to tear it down.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by zuzusan:
<strong>For those of us considering pulling the pumpkins ourselfs, what is the procedure (easiest/quickest/etc.) for the IFS front? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I've never done it. I can get the CV's out using the instructions in the CV boot changing writeup. I know from previous questions that the steering system is gonna give me some clearance problems, but other than that I'm planning to just figure it out as I go.

I'll be doing the tear-down with hand tools only, in the parking lot here on campus. Good thing I've got some buds with cars.

-chris

Procedure for removing front axle housing:

1) Loosen lug nuts from both front tires
2) Jack up front end, secure safely with jack stands
3) Drain oil out of housing
4) Remove front tires
5) Relieve pressure on torsion bars
6) Remove both hubs
7) Remove c-clips from both axles

Note - my choice was to work from the drivers side, so:

8) Remove driver's side brake caliper and secure up and out of the way
9) Remove drivers side shock
10) Remove steering stabilizer (if applicable)
11) Remove crossmember
12) Detach front end of front driveshaft
13) Detach steering center link from steering box, steering idler and tie rods.
14) Remove at least 3 of the bolts holding the steering idler to frame (loosen the last one) - this will give enough clearance to get the center link out of the mounting point. This is necessary to provide enough clearance to get the axle housing out.
15) Remove the 4 bolts for the upper ball joint (you may need to break the ball joint loose - if you have done a balljoint flip it is not necessary to break ball joint loose)
16) Remove 4 bolts from lower ball joint
17) Remove driver's side rotor and steering knuckle
18) Remove driver's side lower a-arm
19) Remove the hose from the axle vent tube

Note - the next step requires either a floor jack and at least one jack stand or a strong friend who is willing to hold and muscle the axle housing on his/her chest.

20) Secure the axle housing while removing the 4 bolts/nuts that hold the housing to the frame

At this point the housing should be free and ready to come out. By moving the housing toward the drivers side, I was able to slide the passenger side axle out of the rotor/steering knuckle assembly and gentle set it on the floor.

21) Remove the 4 bolts from both the drivers side and passenger side of the axle housing. This will allow you to remove both axles from the housing. You may need to use a rubber mallet (or something) to persuaid the axles to part company with the housing. Once the axles are out:

22) Remove all of the bolts the hold the third member onto the housing.
23) Remove the third member from the housing.

There!! You are done.

Note: To expedite the draining of the oil, you may want to drive a bit with 4-wheel drive engaged (keep hubs unlocked). Only do this if it can be done safely with your 4-wheel drive system.

Note: The exact order of these steps is not important and it may not be necessary to do it exactly as I have described. In fact I have wondered if it is possible to remove the third member with the housing in the vehicle but in the long run I figured having the housing on the floor would be the best way.

I have put this together from memory. I apologize if I have forgotten any steps.

Tools needed: A separator tool for breaking the tie rods and center link loose. Other than that a good selection of sockets and open end wrenches will be necessary. I think everything from 10mm to 27mm is needed, well not everything but that is the range.

Good luck,

Steve G

PS And since I am into this thing for the 3rd time in 6 weeks and I hope this is the last time for a long time, I decided to replace both axle bearings and seals. These are not things that the install shop will be providing or doing. These are on the axles not part of the third member.

<small>[ June 11, 2003, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: lttlbddy ]</small>

Here's the info I just got from Jerry:

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans"><strong>
HI CHRIS
THERE IS NO DESIGNATED KIT AS SUCH FOR THE REAR ENDS, HOWEVER I DO HAVE ALL THE PARTS NEEDED TO ASSEMBLE, FRT OR RR, UNITS, YOU WOULD NEED THE SIDE BEARINGS 2, 1 INNER AND 1 OUTER PINION BRNG, FRONT SEAL AND THE CRUSH SLEEVE , I HAVE TONS OF INDIVIDUAL PARTS FOR THE DANA REARS YOU WOULD NEED THE SAME NO OF PARTS FOR THE DANA, BUT DIFF, PARTS NO, SAME FOR THE REAR 12 BOLT DIFF I HAVE ALL THE PARTS FOR THEM AND I COULD MAKE UP A BEARING KIT IF THERE IS A NEED TO HAVE ALL THE
PARTS TOGETHER,, , GIVE ME A DAY OR SO AND I WILL WORK UP A PRICE SHEET FOR A KIT FOR THE FRT ,, RR AND DANA RR I HAVE ALL THE INDIVIDUAL
PIECES IN STOCK,, THANKS JERRY
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I'll let you guys know what I find out.
-chris

For what its worth I find it easier to remover the lower a-arms. However this can be tough if you have never had them off before. It just makes getting the axle out and in eaiser.