Procedure for removing front axle housing:
1) Loosen lug nuts from both front tires 2) Jack up front end, secure safely with jack stands 3) Drain oil out of housing 4) Remove front tires 5) Relieve pressure on torsion bars 6) Remove both hubs 7) Remove c-clips from both axles
Note - my choice was to work from the drivers side, so:
8) Remove driver's side brake caliper and secure up and out of the way 9) Remove drivers side shock 10) Remove steering stabilizer (if applicable) 11) Remove crossmember 12) Detach front end of front driveshaft 13) Detach steering center link from steering box, steering idler and tie rods. 14) Remove at least 3 of the bolts holding the steering idler to frame (loosen the last one) - this will give enough clearance to get the center link out of the mounting point. This is necessary to provide enough clearance to get the axle housing out. 15) Remove the 4 bolts for the upper ball joint (you may need to break the ball joint loose - if you have done a balljoint flip it is not necessary to break ball joint loose) 16) Remove 4 bolts from lower ball joint 17) Remove driver's side rotor and steering knuckle 18) Remove driver's side lower a-arm 19) Remove the hose from the axle vent tube
Note - the next step requires either a floor jack and at least one jack stand or a strong friend who is willing to hold and muscle the axle housing on his/her chest.
20) Secure the axle housing while removing the 4 bolts/nuts that hold the housing to the frame
At this point the housing should be free and ready to come out. By moving the housing toward the drivers side, I was able to slide the passenger side axle out of the rotor/steering knuckle assembly and gentle set it on the floor.
21) Remove the 4 bolts from both the drivers side and passenger side of the axle housing. This will allow you to remove both axles from the housing. You may need to use a rubber mallet (or something) to persuaid the axles to part company with the housing. Once the axles are out:
22) Remove all of the bolts the hold the third member onto the housing. 23) Remove the third member from the housing.
There!! You are done.
Note: To expedite the draining of the oil, you may want to drive a bit with 4-wheel drive engaged (keep hubs unlocked). Only do this if it can be done safely with your 4-wheel drive system.
Note: The exact order of these steps is not important and it may not be necessary to do it exactly as I have described. In fact I have wondered if it is possible to remove the third member with the housing in the vehicle but in the long run I figured having the housing on the floor would be the best way.
I have put this together from memory. I apologize if I have forgotten any steps.
Tools needed: A separator tool for breaking the tie rods and center link loose. Other than that a good selection of sockets and open end wrenches will be necessary. I think everything from 10mm to 27mm is needed, well not everything but that is the range.
Good luck,
Steve G
PS And since I am into this thing for the 3rd time in 6 weeks and I hope this is the last time for a long time, I decided to replace both axle bearings and seals. These are not things that the install shop will be providing or doing. These are on the axles not part of the third member. <small>[ June 11, 2003, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: lttlbddy ]</small>
1990 Amigo XS 4x4, BFG MT 35s, Front & Rear ARBs, 5.38s, Tera Lows, custom springs, custom nerf bars, DOR Front Bumper, custom rear bumper, HD 9500 winch, some CalMini & other stuff
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