</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Mr. Bighorn:
<strong>All experienced hands on deck, please.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Got me on that one. Never dropped a V8 into a Trooper of any vintage. In fact, never swapped any engine into anything... ever.

Actually, the swap I was talking about was the GenIII/T-56 into a Catera using parts from the Commodore HSV. And yes, I'm aware it would not likely be a bolt-in project. But with commonality of parts dictated as they are by economies of scale, plus the fact that the factory has already proven the motor/tranny will physically fit, I'd bet it could be done. But, since you brought it up and I was thinking about it anyway, let's talk about dropping an LS1 into my Trooper('01, TOD). Why mine? Mostly 'cause I already own it and it's my daydream.

1. I'm not particularly worried about the rear axle; the ring and pinion is almost Dana 60 sized, the axle shafts have a good reputation, I would be changing to an ARB diff, and I don't plan on running anything larger than 33's in any case.

2. I notice the Jack8 has a 50mm body lift. I'm guessing that made it easier to fit the engine farther back in the chassis (more room for engine accessories) while decreasing the amount of suspension lift necessary to fit those tires (wouldn't want any more stress on those CV's that are still there than necessary). I'd rather not have a body lift, but I'd bet that if the Holden guys did it, it was probably necessary and I'd probably have to do it too.

3. There's no way I'm strapping a 4L30-E to the back of that motor (I'd like more than 5k miles between tranny replacement). So, I'd likely use a 4L60-E (or 4L60-E HD from a Hummer H2 if I can find one) since I already know it will bolt up and handle the torque.

4. Most any T-case I can think of (please correct me if I'm wrong) that mates to the above tranny will have its front output on the left side (I'm partial to the NVG242HD, from the Hummer H1), which is of course the opposite of the stock front diff. However, because I wish to retain the option to shift into four wheel drive, I'll need a way to get the power from the t-case to the wheels. So now I need a new front axle.

5. I am unwilling to risk life and limb by designing my own IFS as I am homogeneously unqualified to engineer such a contraption. Further, I tend to believe solid axles offer more strength and dependability than their IFS counterparts, at least in slow to medium speed work. Hey, dozens of ARCA competitors can't be wrong, so solid axle it is!

6. But which one? I think the Dana 40. Parts are plentiful, they can be built plenty strong for my uses (see tire size above), and it offers a nice balance (Feng Shui, if you will) of strength/size/wieght when compared to the rear Isuzu Corp 12-bolt.

7. For mounting, I would likely use trailing links (and associated mounts) from an 80 series LC, with custom mounts on the axles. They control the rotational torque along the axis of the axles with two links, rather than four. I'd need a panhard bar, and would like to try cribbing parts for this from one of these CJ-coil-conversion kits if at all possible. Haven't exactly figured this last part out yet, nor the issue of steering, but hey, sounds like I'm off to a good start, huh?

Anyhoo, since we're just bench racing anyway, no harm in dreaming.

Kevin V