Just for info 87 does not have TPS.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Badas87-2dr:<BR><STRONG>Just for info 87 does not have TPS.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>My 87 sure did.... And as Kary pointed out was it bad. The fingers that slide over the resistive material had worn out... I re bent them and was good to go.<P>That was back when I had a carb...<P>Of course my fuel injection has a similar sensor. Oh well... Perhaps a absolute noncontacting optical encoder with a D to A converter to simulate a pot?<P>well it was just an idea....<P>Kevin C<p>[ 24 November 2001: Message edited by: Kevin C ]

Don:<BR>Are you SURE Its "valve Clatter" and not a pinging or detonation noise??. By the way you describe it - THAT is what it sounds like. No noise under light throttle-- higher load louder noise!. Check out (also of course) EGR function and timing control. I know you like to run the higher octane fuel - have you changed brands or octane lately?.<BR>I've seen pinging/detonation actually loosen rod bolts and result in broken rods and really bad stuff, and also a drop in OIL PRESSURE before it gets bad enough to damage big stuff. <BR>Just 3 weeks ago at 149mph I had a nitrous hick-up(it went lean) and the result was - torched air filter, booster venturis melted and 3 large chunks of piston (1 for each) magicly fell off. (this was on the salt of course) We went lean for 20ms!!.We coasted through at an average of 146mph but could not back it up with a return run for another record. I guess its ok because that motor has had 40lbs. of nitrous run through it at speed!!. We have already mocked up a wipple charger for next year.<BR>BE CAREFULL OUT THERE<BR>Kary

Kary,<P>Be careful! Sounds like you lead a DANGEROUS life!<P>You're right, it's probably "ping" or detonation, it sounds sharper than the usual valve chatter. I'm usually running mid-grade fuels, usually Shell, or Chevron. The problem startd on Shell, and continues through a second tank of Chevron.<P>I'll put the timing control on the list, though it will tke a few days to get there. Last welding class tomorrow, so been busy getting ready...<P>Thanks,<P>Don

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Badas87-2dr:<BR><STRONG>Just for info 87 does not have TPS.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>I have officially put my foot in my mouth. I apologize, ladies and gents. After some research I do have a TPS. Good day. [img]images/icons/smile.gif" border="0[/img] [img]images/icons/smile.gif" border="0[/img]

Whilst this is not replying [img]images/icons/cool.gif" border="0[/img] , I was hoping that someone could fix my problems. Now excuse the metric but i deal in kilometres to the litre. I was wondering what you guys get in your NA - NF 2.6l. i am getting around 15 in the city and 12 in the country. I have a mate with a LWB and he is getting 10 pulling a 1 tonne boat out in front on the same trip<P><BR>I Wondering if you guys get the same, where I should look to fix the problem, i have the thing serviced regularly and so forth so it isnt out of tune. Thanks for your help <P>Jordie<P>P.S. mine is a SWB<BR>P.P.S. I was just re-reading my post and yes I am referring to economy.<p>[ 26 November 2001: Message edited by: Jordie ]

Jordie,<P>Not quite sure what you mean by "kilometers to the liter", but here's the 14 year average for my 2.6L A/T 2door:<BR>19.7 miles per British gallon<BR>16.4 miles per US gallon<BR>14.4 L per 100 km<BR>7.0 km per Liter<P>I think you need the L/100km figure...<P>Hope it helps,<P>Don

JAVYPRO;<BR>To fix the TPS you must first remove it from the carb. After removing it and cleaning it look at it very closely and you should be able to see the seam where it is put together. When I did mine it seems that the seam was slightly misleading, I believe that I ended up drilling a hole on the back side of the TPS and then using a electric contact cleaner (spray) to clean up the insides. You could use brake-clean but the contact cleaner also lubricates the insides and can cut down any arcing that may happen even with the low current that these things carry.<BR>Thanks for the compliment but theres no way that I can know everything before I die, but I keep trying.<BR>Glad to help<BR>Kary

My $.02 says the "rattle" is lean out preignition or the resistance spring in the vac advance is weak. There's a deg. advance vs. in. vac. chart in the manual somewhere. I finally figured out that you had to check the function of the centrif advance vs. rpm with the vac disconnected and plugged, then check the vac advance on top of the centrif with a hand vac pump. What about accelerator pump functioning? Main fuel metering is done part fixed jet conventional, and part feedback controlled solenoid. At least two other circuits have feedback controlled solenoids, but I put that stuff out of my memory when I went to efi. I've got a working 87 carb I'd sell you subject to having it solve your problem. All you'd be out is freight both ways. Email me.

Eddy,<P>Give me another week to battle this headache. A known functional carb is certainly interesting...<BR>The dist advance spring is another one I'll look at. I want to re-check the secondary vacuum levels again too, I'm thinking that the secondarymay not be operating at the slight vacuum required.<P>Further details...<BR>Refilled with highest octane rating, instead of mid-level. Now the chatter/ping/etc that would start before the onset of the "sticking valve" power loss is noticably reduced, though the back-fire afterwards is still there. WithOUT any carb cleaner added to the gas, the power loss hit hard this morning. Is it dirt after all? <BR>Talked with the mechanic by phone, and described all of the above writings from the past week. He seems to favour something electrical, possibly temp sensor. <BR>TPS problem would apparently always act at the same throttle POSITION, rather than any specific RPM. My problem is unrelated to throttle position, and occurs when trying to accel under load in higher gears, especially after a few minutes of cruising at the same speed.<BR>Checked the temp sensor with the volt meter this PM, and the resistances seem ok at hot and warm. Still need to check cool and cold. Then (as per other thread) noticed I may have a problem with the thermoswitch (the vertical one in the intake manifold), with both the wire looking bamaged, and the top of the switch looks corroded. I measured the resistance with the volt meter from the switch center post to ground, and saw no resistance. Then checked it again a few minutes later, and the resistance was infinite... Can this variable reading give me the variable apparent carb problem?<BR>I then added a bottle of STP carb cleaner to the new tank of gas, and went for another hiway run. Behaves better WITH the carb cleaner... But also noticed it wouldn't shift into OD for about 5 seconds on one test. This is getting stranger.<BR>For the most part the engine runs very well, and very smooth right up to 5,000 RPM. But still gives me problems under load, about 50% of the time.<P>More checking...<P>Thanks all,<P>Don<P><BR>(having a terrible time posting since yesterday...)