This is cross posted from Pirate, because I know there are some Elocker experts who peruse this board a lot. Any help would be greatly appreciated:

So I decided to rewire my elocker using a relay system and Carterman's diagram to set it up. I have followed all directions exactly how the diagram shows (SPDT switch and 2 relays), connecting all motor, power, and grounds to to appropriate numbered connectors on the relays, and wired in a momentary on-off-on switch.

My first tries were futile as I blew through several 10 and 15 amp fuses the moment I connected the battery.

Checked the grounds thoroughly, no problems there, tried getting juice from both fused sources and running direct from battery, still blowing fuses.

Tried connecting the relays in a different way, and now it will not blow immediately, but will blow once I switch to the momentary on position.

I have taken off the elocker motor, tested it, and it works perfectly fine, no jamming.

Must the switch and relays both be SPDT, or can the switch be one (SPST and the relays be another (SPDT)? Some have said it doesn't matter. I am not sure what else could be wrong.

I have triple checked my wiring and did it exactly as Carterman's diagram explains...I have blown through probably 20 fuses. What the hell am I doing wrong here? Everyone else that has posted has mentioned they got this right on the first try with Carterman's diagram.

I have pretty much wasted my entire weekend on this F-ing elocker and it still doesn't work.

PS Already searched endlessly and have review multiple wiring diagrams till my eyes are crossed. I am sure it is some simple thing that is gonna make me look like an ass, so hopefully someone can help me troubleshoot.

**Update: I need clarification on this specific following issue. The fact that the diagram shows relay plug 87 and 87a housing the power wire and ground causes an immediate short in the system. This is why I am blowing fuses. Am I using the wrong relay type, or is this diagram incorrect? In a typical relay system, 87 and 87a should not have power and ground affiliated.

Hopefully Carterman can chime in to help.

Thanks.

Kurt G.

87 and 87a are the Normally Open and Normally Closed contacts for the relay:

<img src="http://www.rowand.net/Shop/images/HeadlightRelayWiringDiagram.jpg" alt=" - " />

Some relays are "make before break" and some are "break before make", if the former, you can have a connection from 87 to 87a for a brief moment while switching. Not sure what the typical Bosch relay is set up like.

<small>[ April 14, 2003, 03:11 PM: Message edited by: 4Crawler ]</small>

Hi Roger,

Thanks for the info, I think you are right on. The relays I am using are make before break, and that is why it is short circuiting. I will be trying specific Bosch relays (part # 0 332 209 150) and see if these will solve my problem.

Thanks,

Kurt G.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Genshie:
<strong>Hi Roger,

Thanks for the info, I think you are right on. The relays I am using are make before break, and that is why it is short circuiting. I will be trying specific Bosch relays (part # 0 332 209 150) and see if these will solve my problem.

Thanks,

Kurt G.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Just for the record, what make and model relay were you trying to use (so we can avoid them)?

Genshie, sorry about the troubles. Let me tell you I was sort of in the same boat but it took me about a month of fooling around till I finally tried cartermans diagram and have had no problems. I used the bosch relays, I think the ones you posted ealier. Be patient. It will come. I drove mine around locked for quite a while. But I learned alot more about the locker because of the troubles I had and am thankfull for those difficulties (now that is works properly).

Carterman,
I using basically the same wiring diagram that he just outlined. Real simple and effective and I haven't had any problems. I have one question though, after I engage the locker I have a green indicator lite indicating locked position. Sometimes, after I unlock, the light is still dimly lite (unlocked) and other times (unlocked) their is no dim light which is what I expect. Their isn't anything I should be concerned about is there. I have had no problems up to now and have used it quite a bit. Thanks
Sid

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Sid's Toy:
<strong>
...Sometimes, after I unlock, the light is still dimly lite (unlocked) and other times (unlocked) their is no dim light which is what I expect. Their isn't anything I should be concerned about is there. I have had no problems up to now and have used it quite a bit. Thanks
Sid</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Mine does that too. Are you using an LED for the indicator light? Mine only does it when it is raining. Just barely lights up. I think it is moisture getting in the connectors on the diff. Doesn't take a lot of current to light the LED. I put some dielectric grease on the connectors. Funny thing was that the dielectric grease itself made it do the same thing for a few days (no rain), then it went away. But the grease didn't seem to help. Maybe I didn't put enough in.

The weird thing is that there have been times where it started raining at night and I have come out in the morning and it is dimly lit, and the axle isn't wet because I haven't driven it yet. Maybe there is water condensation in the diff that is fouling the switch??? I've changed my diff oil though and don't see a lot of water here in So. Cal.

Anyway, you may want to check to see if those connectors are staying dry inside. If you are using an LED, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe using a higher-valued resistor would help? Now, if it is a regular lamp that is lighting up, that is a different story.

I'm curious to hear more details on how yours acts, such as if it seems related to moisture or not.

<small>[ April 15, 2003, 01:51 AM: Message edited by: thecarterman ]</small>

Carter,
never seemed to be related to rain or not, but never really checked either. I will pay closer attention. I am using a LED indicator light.
I seemed to only notice it when after I unlock it and it doesn't do it all the time so I don't know where the corilation is. But like I said, the locker acts fully locked or unlocked. I get back to you when I play around with it some more.
Thanks
Sid

Okay,

Thanks to everyone's help, this mystery is solved. The relays MUST be specifically Bosch part number 0 332 209 150. To everyone who had the same frustrations, go get these relays, follow Carterman's diagram and you are hooked up! Carterman, on your future update of the wiring diagram, I would specify the part about these relays, otherwise, the diagram was crystal clear and easy!

In addition, if you can get your hands on one of those old style antenna up/down switches, they make a perfect momentary on-off-on switch. Just take the 2 middle wires and the yellow/black wire on the UP side of the switch and plug them into the 12v source, and then take the 2 remaining wires and plug them into your 85 terminal wires, and you are good to go!

Kurt G.

Good to hear you got it figured out. Good job.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Genshie:
<strong>Okay,

Thanks to everyone's help, this mystery is solved. The relays MUST be specifically Bosch part number 0 332 209 150. To everyone who had the same frustrations, go get these relays, follow Carterman's diagram and you are hooked up! Carterman, on your future update of the wiring diagram, I would specify the part about these relays, otherwise, the diagram was crystal clear and easy!

In addition, if you can get your hands on one of those old style antenna up/down switches, they make a perfect momentary on-off-on switch. Just take the 2 middle wires and the yellow/black wire on the UP side of the switch and plug them into the 12v source, and then take the 2 remaining wires and plug them into your 85 terminal wires, and you are good to go!

Kurt G.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Good news! Thanks for the part #.
I'll post it on my site.
But there are lots of other relays,
not just Bosch, that will work. The
key is that they must be double-throw,
as my schematic shows. As for the Bosch-type relays,
Only the right ones will have the
87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86 terminals because
those numbers are part of a standard.

So, you can look for those numbers on the terminals when buying your relays.
Note however that not all relays use
this numbering scheme to identify their
terminals.


More info:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TNyBjAF7unH/tech/kb326.html
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/relays.htm

<small>[ April 16, 2003, 12:52 PM: Message edited by: thecarterman ]</small>