<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by CerOf:<BR><STRONG>Just a note too: Since is has been quite a few miles on the current differential fluid...do it right and completely remove the diff. cover. and drain and clean it this way. It is SUPER easy.<P>I use brake cleaner or an engine degreaser when I clean mine out, I do it yearly as I am VERY hard on my differentials.<P>Wipe it out with a towel or whatever, then refill with favorite fluid.<P>I use 80/140 in both FRONT and REAR differentials and NEVER had a problem with noise, outside of slight driveline vibe from pinion angles.<P>Good luck! <P>PS It took me about 45minutes to do my front differential the very first time I ever did it myself...that included going to the bathroom, drinking an adult beverage, feeding the dog...you get the picture...it is an EASY do it yourself job, at least on the rear diff...the front IFS diff can be kinda hard to get to depending on your vehicle/make/model.<P><BR>EDIT: The limited slip units that come stock on 99% of ALL vehicles do wear out eventually. The only kind that will last nearly as long as the vehicle is a gear driven limited slip such as the Detroit True-Track.<P>[ 18 September 2001: Message edited by: CerOf ]</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>The only problem with trying to remove the rear cover on the Gen 1 vehicle is it does not have one.<P>A simple change is a huge improvment. If you get any chatter with the non synthetic lube the flush makes no sense since you will be getting metal contamination in the new oil.<P>Most of what does not drain out is left in the axle tubes. Angle the rear axle to each side with the drian plug out and you can get more old fluid out.<P>Im my experiance the Mitsubshi units will produce a bit of metal since they are steel on steel clutches but per say they dont lose much preload.<P>I have taken apart old high millage units that were still in spec (on the high side). The metal they did produce was more galling they took out metal in small areas but the clutch did not lose much overall thickness.<P>This is on 120,000 plus mile units. What did seem to take a beating was the gears. The only time you will find bad clutches is if the unit got overheated by spinning the unit a lot when stuck. <P>Hang one tire in the air and let it spin with the other wheel not turning and you will get the cluthes hot. Keep doing it and you will burn them up<P>Kevin C


87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...