I got the head for my 2.3l back last week after a valve replacement and a valve job. The guy at the machine shop said he couldn't remember whether it was for a pickup or a Trooper so he had gone with the more conservative of the two when adjusting the valves - .008" for both intake and exhaust. (Wouldn't .010" be more conservative than .008"? I think that's what he said the other choice was.) Since this is a rebuilt engine - not even necessarily from a Trooper to begin with, how do I know what the valve clearances should be? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> Are they different because of differences in the engine or differences in the intake/exaust system? The markings on the back of the head look like this:

8
4ZD1/C1

I think the #8 casting pretty much guarantees that it didn't come from a Trooper, right?

Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ben

I'm pretty sure the valve lash would be the same on that head --from the 4ZD1--no matter what vehicle it came from... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="images/icons/smile.gif" />
I adjusted mine with what the manual says--Intake .008

Exhaust -.010

I believe this is correct-----------

Both Chilton's and Haynes call for .006 on the intake, .008 on the exhaust for a 2.3L.

The 4ze1 uses .008 for both.

Ah, so he used the spec for the wrong engine, not the wrong vehicle (well, wrong vehicle too I guess). The way he said it made it sound like the 4ZD1 engine in a different vehicle had different specs and I got to thinking how my engine didn't start out in my vehicle. I guess I was grasping for a reason for the burned valve. The reason is likely infrequent valve adjustments with a possible overheat in January thrown in for good measure. Anyway, it's all clear now. I need to go find the feeler guages.
Thanks!