I located and purchased a Dana 44 axle from 1978 Waggoner to be used for SAS on 94 Rodeo with auto transmission.

I have started to purchase parts for the axle rebuild.
What gearing would you suggest and why for a driving on freeways without redlining using
35-inch tires? 4.88, 5.13 or 5.38. The axle has 3.54 so I got to purchase a carrier for new ring and pinion

Knuckles rotation should they be re welded at 12 to 15 degree, before test fitting. Would it be wise to complete prior to test fitting with no problems.

Which ujoints would you suggest I use?

I don't expect to complete this prior to January or February. I know I'll more question after I have dissembled the axle completely.

<strong>What gearing would you suggest and why for a driving on freeways without redlining using
35-inch tires? 4.88, 5.13 or 5.38. </strong>
How wide of a tire? 35x12.50? I run 36x12.50 TSL Radials with 5.13 gears (max allow by my rear axle, GM 14bff) and wish i had a little more gear though my speedo is about dead on with stock. So from my experience I might say 5.13 would be the right gear with 35s. Of course, if you're gonna spend the time to regear, 5.38 is only one step away and the max you can take a D44, so you might as well stick those in there and never worry about regearing axles again. So, my vote is for the lowest, 5.38.

<strong>Knuckles rotation should they be re welded at 12 to 15 degree, before test fitting. Would it be wise to complete prior to test fitting with no problems.</strong>
If you're referring to caster, 12-15* is a lot of positive caster, i'd shoot for more around 8*. If you're talking about pinion angle, i rotated mine up to 20*, too much more, you might start to worry about oiling problems.

The knuckles are a press fit onto the ends of the tubes. So you can bang them on in their new position and double/triple check everything before you do any welding. This is something you wanna be sure about before you weld it back up.

<strong>Which ujoints would you suggest I use?</strong>
steering joints? you only have two choices 297x or 760x... 760x's are the replacement for 297x and supposedly slightly stronger than their old counterparts. Of course, if you got the big $$$, CTM joints are available and virtually indestructable.
if you're talking driveshaft ujoints, i believe the D44 yoke uses either a 1310 or 1320 series joint.

<strong>I don't expect to complete this prior to January or February. I know I'll more question after I have dissembled the axle completely.</strong>
Well, i wish you luck! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="images/icons/smile.gif" /> we'll definitely be around to answer any questions you wanna throw out. Make sure and keep us updated on your project.

-Rob

Hey,

What are you guys using for front driveshaft donors? I think that the waggys use 1310's on their pinion yokes, but I don't know what sort arrangement the Zu Tcase has coming off the front. Sweater and I are heading to the yard this saturday to get jiggy with it, and I need to know what you guys are working with. I suspect I'll need to get whatever driveline I get cut down, but I'd rather not screw with combo joints etc. Also, I'd assume a ~40" front driveshaft?

Bob

PS CTM's rock da house. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="images/icons/smile.gif" /> If you go with them, use Warns, not Mosers (since it's a waste to use them with 1020's, as cheap as junkyard spares are, which are fully loaded). Word is that their alloy is the best for CTM users. It's related to the ductility and stress characteristics.. whatever. Apparently Mosers are a little more pliable, and so will ABSORB shock better, but the warns can take a higher one time stress loading, which is what you want. Then again, junker spares are $20 each ($50 max), and going warns and CTM's is an $850 proposition. I just hate breaking stuff.

Oh yeah, your guys' gearing is CRACKALACKA! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="images/icons/shocked.gif" /> The typical Jeep ratio for 35's is 4.88 for a trail rig, or 4.56 for a more streeted rig.

I run 35's with 4.56's in my 44's in my Grand Cherokee (5.2l engine) and it's pretty close to stock.

Bob

I regeared my axles to 5.38's. This meant new carrier's front and rear. The bearing on the rear pinion is smaller than the standard dana 44 so you need to get this one from Isuzu. Just a heads up.

Troy

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Trango:
<strong>The typical Jeep ratio for 35's is 4.88 for a trail rig, or 4.56 for a more streeted rig. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Bob, keep in mind Jeep's american motor makes power in a lot lower RPMS, especially the inline 4.0. The import motors in our Isuzus however have a higher powerband, we need the gearing to stay were the power is. Afterall, my Rodeo came stock with 4.30s... thats unreal to a Jeeper with 3.07s or even 3.73s max!

-Rob

<strong>What are you guys using for front driveshaft donors? </strong>
I started out with the stock driveshaft, just lengthed and ground yokes. Then changed to a 6" bronco slip running a Toyota 41* joint at the tcase end. Now, I'm running a square tube draftshaft I built for the extra slip (6" wasn't enough for the flex) with that same Toyota joint at the end.

<strong>I think that the waggys use 1310's on their pinion yokes, but I don't know what sort arrangement the Zu Tcase has coming off the front. </strong>
Yea, thats correct. 1310 is at the tcase end as well, however the tcase uses a flange rather than a yoke. The flange will accept 1310 i believe and is a custom bolt pattern, so changing that out is difficult... I had a new flange custom made with the Isuzu pattern to accept the toyota joint.

<strong> I suspect I'll need to get whatever driveline I get cut down, but I'd rather not screw with combo joints etc.</strong>
Yea, I'd be surprised if you didn't. Just stick with 1310s at both ends. The stock driveshaft lengthed makes a good starting point, grind the yokes for some more angle, and its got like 3-4" of slip. Otherwise, square tube is nice and easy to do, loads of slip, but not to be used above 5-10mph (very shakey).

<strong>, I'd assume a ~40" front driveshaft?</strong>
40"? wow. your setup is a lot different than mine. I dream of 40"! My shaft is like half that, 20". given i have a manual and you'll pick up a few more inches with the auto, but unless you moved that axle really far forward, i don't think its gonna be that long.

-Rob

Rob handled most of the questions (excellent!) -- so I'll just say that your driveshaft is gonna be the tough part... making one work in that limited space is gonna be tough.

I had real issues with mine until I swapped to Toyota transmission and dual transfer cases... now the longer length can handle the big height drop. Turning the knuckles on the axle helps some by getting the pinion closer to in-line with the driveshaft, but you'll still have an ugly angle at the transfer case.

I was just on the line with Tom Wood about this...
<img src="http://www.outdoorwire.com/expo/4x4/tomwoods/featured.gif" alt=" - " />
http://www.outdoorwire.com/expo/4x4/tomwoods/index.htm
... he's sure that he can solve this problem, when you run into it, and since he's just up the road in Ogden, give him a call.

Randii

Something I had scribbled down from my conversation with Tom -- 1310 CV joints can run up to 30 degrees reliably, about 50% further than an unmodified 1350 CV... but he recommends that both be kept under 25 degrees for continuous operation... If you rotate the pinion up, you'll probably want a CV up top at the transfer case.

Troy, have you had a chance to approximate the angle of your dangle? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="images/icons/tongue.gif" /> I bet you'll be close to 30 degrees, though I haven't seen a live axle done with an auto yet, you may get less angularity...

If you win the lottery, you can run an 80-degree CV: http://www.4xshaft.com/highangle.html

Randii

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by randii:
<strong>If you rotate the pinion up, you'll probably want a CV up top at the transfer case.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Not to disagree Randii <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="images/icons/grin.gif" /> ... from what i learned, it was my understanding CVs are more for moderately steep angles where vibration is a concern. However, a single joint can yield steeper working angles, but of course introducing vibration. In a front, offroad use only setup, where the shafts routinely spinning at 5mph, i would think vibration is of little concern. I was told, if you want max angle, strength, and affordability (of course throwing vibration concerns out the window) stick with a single joint.

FYI, The most working angle i've seen out of a joint is the 41* Toyota joint that i now run. You're right, most CVs don't like to be stretched over 30* and thats pushing it.

Another issue about the big angled CVs (besides $$$ of course) is that they are large and take up lots of space. I know you'd have no hope in bolting some of those up to the MUA without rubbing the side of the case. You might have a little more play on the auto, but i still be space is an issue. In rear applications, with a tailshaft, space around the CV isn't really much of a consideration.

...but i don't claim to be a driveshaft expert by any means. So i recommend you get in touch with Tom or Jesse and explain your particular setup, those guys know what they're talking about.

-Rob