87 Raider 2.6 - 126,000 - LSD (not the drug)<P>What are the symptoms of a broken link on the timing chain vs. a loose silent shaft chain?<P>It sounds like a link is slapping around inside, but I can't tell.<P>The (not so) silent shaft chain adjuster is at max tight, which makes things quieter but something is still loose. <P>Any specific sounds to tell if a link is broken on the timing chain?<P>Any experience would be helpful. Thanks!<P>Gee, maybe I should just upgrade to a twin turbo 3.0....Just kidding! P.S. Get my photos of the '98MS ARB Bumper install today<P>

Stop driving it and pull the front cover!<P>More than likely you have a broken pivot bolt on the chain adjuster. When you tried to adjust the chain did the arm that you moved seem loose?<P>If the pivot (the pivot is on the oposite end of the part you adjusted)is broken the chain will jump and the oil pump will stop spinning.... Things get bad from there.<P>Kevin C<P>

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><HR>If the pivot (the pivot is on the oposite end of the part you adjusted)is broken the chain will jump and the oil pump will stop spinning.... Things get bad from there.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Kevin just said it. That goes and you can count on some serious work. I would pull the cover and inspect. While the cover is off you can also remove the oil pan and install a silent shaft elimination kit. A little insurance if you will. Keep us posted<P>Gord<BR><p>[This message has been edited by Gord (edited 20 May 2001).]

The silent shaft adjuster is secure ( not making THAT much noice). <P>When the chain was slack it made an absolutely horrable sound. I even replaced Main & Connecting rod bearings from below (a few years ago) before discoving the adjuster was loose.<P>It could just be the chain riding along worn guides, or my guess of a possible loose/broken link on the timing chain. If/When I rebuild, I already have the kit to eliminate the balance shaft... <P>Having read past posts (search) the addition of more usable HP is reason enough to eliminate the SS. Plus a bore couldn't hurt.<BR>I will deal with that when the time comes.<P>Any other suggestions before I rip this apart... From Experience I guess the better choice is to rebuild myself as opposed to getting a rebuilt and not knowing the history.

I did not notice anything about mileage. It may be that one of the rails has become loose or worn excessively (or the chain is very, very worn). Time to open it up and see before something major breaks. If the chain is rubbing anything (no rubber left on the chain rails), it's making small metal flakes that your pumping through the oil system and that's not good.

Oil is clear, no flaking last time I checked, about 3,000 ago. <P>Mileage is as stated about 126,000...<P>I now know what I'm doing Memorial day weekend. Damn !<P>Perhaps I should pull the whole damn thing and start a rebuild... Any suggestions to getting 200 HP out of a 2.6.... has anyone tried to run a blower (supercharger) on a 2.6?.... P.S. Auto trans<P>I have heard of many turbo/intercooler installs but never any SC... I wonder if Paxton (+) has something vs. a roots type blower (-).<BR>

IMHO, the starion turbo swap is the way to go for ease of installation. Nobody that I was able to find builds a kit for the S/C install, so you would need to fab the mounting brackets, drive system, intake plumbing, fi system (unless you use the Starion intake - I have been advised that the Mikuni won't operate under boost). All the Starquest stuff fits in the engine bay, There are at least 4 of us who have been there-done that, and are ready to advise. The a/t is a better choice for either a turbo or s/c install, as it handles more torque than the m/t (blown a relatively new m/t before in a turbo D-50 - weak in the input shaft bearings and layshaft gears). The best way to do this is find a complete donor car. The best models are the 88-89 Starion/Conquests (best fuel system and can run 10psi boost stock). Even in my 85 Starquest system, boost starts under 2500rpm, and you can build 200+hp easy, vs 109 stock. 5.0 Rustangs are dogmeat against a turbo Monty. My turbo Raider runs fairly well on 87 regular, and gets 16mpg+ around town. Best performing vs. easy engine swap I've ever done. Email me and I'll give you the parts list and tips. BTW, I agree on the bad chain guide diagnosis. Loosen the pan all around to avoid tearing the pan gasket. Use RTV liberally on install of the timing cover or you'll get leaks.<P>------------------<BR>Fasteddy - "born under the Stars and Bars"<BR>87 turbo Raider (it'll never be done)<BR>A/T 30-9.50-15s, lsd, Rolling Rock

The only way to get 200hp is by the turbo/Starion conversion.<P>There were never any SC's made for the 2.6..<P>woops..let me say that again.....<P>there were SC's made for the 2.6 but only in other countries, not in the US.<P>Plus, even if you could get one, passing emissions tests might not happen.<P>Go for the turbo!!!!<P>Jason<BR><P>------------------<BR><BR>"LIFE IS BETTER IN LOW-RANGE!!"<P>86-Montero 201,000 miles aka "redcar"<BR>2.6 FI/Turbo/Intercooled 5spd.<BR>33x12.5" BFG AT's. Lifted front and rear Suspension.<BR>Currently in "mod-mode" and getting the works..<BR>Snorkel, Rear-Locker, Front Maybe, Undercarrage Protection ect..<P>'87 Montero 226,000miles aka "bluecar"<P>2.6 stock engine w/2900miles-- rebuilt and waiting for a turbo.<P>Completely Restored inside and out !!! <BR>Looks as if it just came off the showroom floor! --- Way too much invested!!

Thanks All. I will let you know.<P>My 5.0 didn't get a chance to rust, a telephone pole fell on it!

Good something put it out of it's misery. Sorry, not fair picking on a cripple. Just an old Chevy guy blowing off steam.<P>------------------<BR>Fasteddy - "born under the Stars and Bars"<BR>87 turbo Raider (it'll never be done)<BR>A/T 30-9.50-15s, lsd, Rolling Rock